TRAVEL

travel

2010-03-24T10:44:00.000-07:00

Travel

LAS VEGAS

2010-01-05T07:52:00.000-08:00

Las Vegas Casinos

The excitement of gambling in Las Vegas casinos is hard to beat. From sports betting to poker, Las Vegas gambling options are endless. If you're new to casino gambling, don't forget to review our tips for playing the most popular casino games before your trip.

TOURS

Grand Canyon Tours

Hoover Dam Tours

VEGAS Strip Tours

informations: http://www.vegas.com/tours/

TRAVEL TO EDINBURGH

2009-11-01T09:22:00.001-08:00

Edinburgh at festival time.

Why Travel to Edinburgh?

Stern, grey 15thC buildings sit on an extinct volcano, lighting a fire under the colourful and sophisticated locals and inspiring a dynamic arts scene that makes this city well worth a trip.
The weather can be dreadful and some areas are a no-no, but summer time, with up to 18 hours of daylight is sensational, especially during the Edinburgh Arts Festival.
Edinburgh Travel Guide, climate:
Best: May-Sept, esp. August for the Festival, New Year's Eve for Hogmanay.
Avoid: Winter time, when it's cold, grey and daylight is in short supply, and August if your aim isn't the Festival - finding accommodation will be a nightmare at that time.
Attractions:
This is a very walkable/bikeable city with terrific views all around, such as Edinburgh Castle, the Royal Mile [a long, medieval street], St. Giles Cathedral, John Knox House, The Palace of Holyroodhouse, Holyrood Park and Scott's Monument.
Golfers should try the hilarious Brunswick links right in the centre of the New Town, or one of many 'proper' courses nearby, or get serious and head for St Andrews.
And finally the Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre is there for those that love a drop of the hard stuff.
Short Trips:
12thC Haddington, Linlithgow, the Borders, Trossachs, and St. Andrews for a game of golf.

Festivals:
Beginning early Aug for the whole month, International and 'Fringe' Edinburgh Festival [formal arts events, music, theatre, opera etc], and loony Fringe, a massive, world beating celebration of all aspects of the arts, trad to mad, with acts from all over the world. Don't miss it.
Dec 31st, Hogmanay, a time of live music and wild street parties that few nations can equal.

Arts/Culture:
Museums & Galleries: Royal Museum of Scotland, Royal Scottish Academy, National Gallery of Scotland, Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, Scottish National Portrait Gallery, The Writer's Museum(Lady Stair's House).
Classical Music: Queen's Hall, Reid Concert Hall, St. Cecilia's Hall, Usher Hall.
Dance/Opera: Edinburgh Festival Theatre, Kings Theatre, Playhouse.
Theatre: Assembly Rooms, Festival Theatre, Traverse Theatre, Gilded Balloon Theatre, Pleasance Theatre.
Live Music & Clubs: Café Graffiti, Canon's Gait, Cas Rock, Kulu's Jaz Joint.
Check'The List' magazine or the 'Evening News' for event info/listings.
Tickets can be bought from the venues or Tourist office.
Cuisine:
For the best of traditional Scottish cooking, try Mertin's or The Vintners Rooms. The Grassmarket area has great restaurants, bars and clubs, as has the city's port, Leith.
The most stylish restaurant is the Atrium. But don't forget to try the fish 'n' chips. Though you might want to give haggis a miss...
Shopping:
Classy: Princes Street, Waverley Market, Royal Mile.
Wacky: Victoria Sreet-Grassmarket (for antiques, arts and crafts), St. Stephen Street.

TRAVEL TO SCOTLAND

2009-11-01T09:16:00.001-08:00

TRAVEL TO EDINBURGH

For its magnificent scenery of soaring rocky mountains, rolling green hills, romantic lakes and rugged coastlines, often scattered with picturesque cottages or dramatic castles.
This is a spectacular walking country if you are either weatherproof or lucky in your timing.
Scotland offers wild urban cultures in both Glasgow and Edinburgh, especially the world's most intensive arts experience, the Edinburgh Festival - and particularly its delightfully bonkers 'Fringe' element.
And finally Scotland is a place to meet fine, interesting and mostly hospitable people, though tread warily around a Scot after he's had a few drinks.

Ben Wyvis, Scottish Highlands in winter.

Downsides:
- Unpredictable weather, often wet or cold or both.
- Limited local cuisine.
- Voracious midge [like small mosquitoes] attacks in the summer in the countryside, especially near fresh water.
- Scotland has very short daylight hours in the winter.
- The Scottish accent can be tricky to understand.

Edinburgh, a migrating dragon passes through Holyrood park.

Climate:
Best: May-Sept. August for the Festival.
Worst: Jan-March [wet, cold, grey, and very short of daylight]. Many small museums close Nov-March.
Edinburgh has an accommodation problem around Hogmany [Dec 29-Jan 2] and during the Festival [August], so, book rooms well in advance.

Edinburgh, capital of Scotland

Main attractions:
***Edinburgh, a dramatic city with the world reputation for its cutting-edge arts scene.
***The Highlands, another splendid landscape, wilder and more dramatic than the Lake District, covering two-thirds of Scotland, with mountains, glens [valleys] and lochs [lakes]. Ideal for hiking and driving.
The highlights are the Great Glen, across from *Inverness to Fort William [both are obvious bases for the Highlands], Nessie-spotting? at *Loch Ness, climbing **Ben Nevis, Britain's highest peak, and walking around ***Glen Coe - it's astonishing beautiful with a tragic history [Picture top right].
**Glasgow, a big industry city with a bad reputation, but actually one of the most cultured and lively urban spaces in the UK. There's some remarkable architecture by C. R. Mackintosh and brilliant museums and galleries - especially the Burrell Collection of art and antiquities including Rodin's The Thinker.
**St Andrews, a university town with the famous old golf course - the Royal & Ancient Golf Club - that is a mecca for golfers.
***The Borders, a tranquil pastoral area with delightful towns such as **Melrose, Kelso and Peebles. The highlights are Abbotsford House [Sir Walter Scott's house], Floors Castle [the Scotland's biggest inhabited castle], Traquair House [the oldest inhabited house]. Ideal for walking, cycling, and driving.
**Stirling, a compact and historic town with an imposing castle, is a perfect base for outdoor travel activities in the Trossachs lowland countryside - ' Rob Roy country'.
**Famous Castles: Eilean Donan near Kyle of Lochalsh, Floors in Kelso -The Borders [picture below], Urquhart by Loch Ness, Cawdor [Macbeth] near Inverness.
Try to stay in a castle-become-hotel if you can afford it. e.g. Leslie Castle, Insch, Aberdeenshire or Borthwick Castle, North Middleton, Midlothian.
*The Orkneys and Shetlands, good for viewing seabirds such as gannets and puffins and prehistoric sites. If lucky you could see the Northern Lights from there.

A crazed Edinburgh Festival busker.

Main festivals:
Dec 31-Jan 2, Hogmanay, a truly wild New Year's celebration.
Last Tuesday of Jan, Up-Helly-Aa [Viking fire festival] in Lerwick, Shetland.
End of Jan, Burns Night [celebration for Scotland's greatest poet with special dinner]
May, Mayfest, the UK's 2nd largest arts festival in Glasgow.
May- August, Highland Games, traditional sport, folk music and dance, nationwide.
Most of August, Edinburgh International Festival, and the more wacky Fringe Festival, certainly the UK's and maybe the world's best arts festival. Early Sept. Braemar Royal Highland Gathering/Games.

Scotland, a hiker's paradise, spacious and fresh but not short of midges.

Scottish Activities:
Walking and Hiking: Especially try to travel the Duke's Pass between Callander and Aberfoyle in the Trossachs, The West Highland Way [95 miles from Glasgow to Fort Williams via loch Lomond and Glen Coe] and the Great Glen Way.
Climbing: Mt. Ben Nevis [1344m], Britain's highest peak, and mountains more peaks and cliffs.
Bird-watching: Orkney Isles, Shetland Isles.
Fishing: The Borders, Deeside and masses of private rivers or public seas.
Biking: Heaps of spectacular small, quiet roads in the Highlands, the Borders, the Trossachs [esp. from Callander to Balquhidder], and so on...
Skiing: Aviemore, UK's biggest skiing centre has some good runs if global warming doesn't kill off the snow.
Golfing: From the wonderful, mad old Edinburgh city centre Brunswick Links to St Andrews, there are more than 400 golf courses in Scotland
Nightlife & Entertainment: Edinburgh or Glasgow are very lively, otherwise forget it.

Floors Castle, The Borders, Scotland

Scottish Note:
There are plenty of themed tours and trails [both guided and non guided] such as 'Castle Trail' and 'Whisky trail'.

England Travel Guide

2009-11-01T09:13:00.001-08:00

England Travel Guide

Studland beach, Dorset, England, UK

England's climate:
Best: April-Sept.
Worst: Jan-March [wet, grey, and short daylight hours].
Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not incl. flights: London only - 2 days
Recommended: 10 days, London plus travel outside to 2 or 3 towns and/or the countryside [e.g. the Lake District, the Cotswolds].

London's Thames River and Tower Bridge.

Main attractions:
London and the South
***London, see London city guide.
**Bath, an elegant though touristy city, with a real Roman spa bath, pump rooms, cathedral and the finest example of Georgian Classical Palladian architecture, in the county of Somerset, along with new age Glastonbury.
***Stonehenge. A group of huge megaliths [shaped stones] dating from 2100 BC, Stonehenge was a centre for religious rituals.
The site is couple of hours SW of London by car, near Salisbury and well organised, with a free audio tour included on entry.
Nearby are other prehistoric sites, particularly the fantastic, tough-friendly ***Avebury Stone Circle.
**Devon and Cornwall, ranging from bleak peninsula moorlands to fluffy thatched cottages on rolling grasslands or set amongst woods, kid-friendly little bays and beaches on the south coast and good surfing on the north [Atlantic] coast.
The Eden Project, Cornwall. Extraordinary, educational and artistic biospheres housing over 100,000 plants and entertainingly aimed at the general public; great for kids.
***Dorset, Agatha Christie and Thomas Hardy country. Castles [Corfe and Maiden], beautiful harbour [Poole], great beaches [Poole and Bournemouth], Cerne Giant, grand old houses [e.g. Longleat] and the ***World Heritage Jurassic Coast with terrific clifftop walks on the 600 mile 'South Coast Path', Dorset to Somerset.
***The Cotswolds, typical English countryside with beautiful rolling hills and charming villages such as Bibury, Bourton-on-the-Water, Painswick, and Castle Combe [picture above left].

Stratford-upon-Avon, Warwickshire.

North of London:
**Stratford-upon-Avon, Everything in this over-visited town from buildings to shops, restaurants to cafes is linked to William Shakespeare.
**Cambridge, a pleasant riverside city with its ancient buildings, notable university and some prime scientific Museums. Don't miss King's College Chapel, the Fitzwilliam Museum and a punt on the river.
**Oxford, the world's best-known university city, with stunning city centre colleges including Christ Church, Merton and the Bodleian Library. It's also a good base for Cotswolds travel.
***Chester, the finest medieval/Roman town in the UK, with a complete town wall and an exquisite centre of timbered Tudor buildings.

Durham Cathedral, County Durham.

**Durham, the most striking cathedral city in England with a magnificent 12th century edifice. If you like cathedrals, also try Winchester, Salisbury or Canterbury.
***York, an historic walled city with one of the finest cathedrals in Europe [York Minster]; also a steam museum .
***Lake District, green hills and woodland with 16 lakes and England's highest mountains is one of the most scenic landscapes in Britain. It attracts not only hikers but literary pilgrims of William Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter [Peter Rabbit].
**Haworth, the birthplace of the Bronte sisters, is popular with literary fans. The adjacent North York Moors and Yorkshire Dales from 'Wuthering Heights' are bleakly beautiful and terrific for walking.
**Hadrian's Wall, the ruins of Roman fortifications built between AD122 and 130, stretch across the north of England for 73 miles. The best preserved bit is at Housesteads.
Festivals:
Jan. 1, London parade
Last week of March, Oxford-Cambridge University boat race on the Thames.
Early May, FA Cup [football] Final, Wembley [London].
Last week of May, Chelsea Flower Show, the UK's best horticultural event [London].
First week of June, Derby week [classic horse racing] in Surrey.
Mid-June, Glastonbury Music Festival, one of the world's best, [wettest?!] and most enduring rock festivals
Also in mid-June Royal Ascot [ upper-class horse racing, famous for mad hats and restricted dress]

Stonehenge World Heritage Site, Wlitshire.

June, Stonehenge Midsummer Day [Solstice] Ritual.
Late June-early July Wimbledon Tennis.
Early July, Henley Royal Regatta rowing race.
Mid-July, British Open Golf Championship [Variable venues].
July-early Sept.The Promenade Concerts [classical music] at the stunning [though acoustically questionable] Royal Albert Hall, London.
Last weekend of August, Notting Hill Carnival, fiesta with music, dance, and parade by London's Caribbean community [West London].

*There are also regional ceremonies and festivals throughout year, from arts and culture to some strange ancient rituals and customs, such as Monday Cheese Rolling [high speed and fairly dangerous], in Brookworth on the spring bank holiday in May.

A Pennine Way long-distance footpath, High Peak District National Park, Derbyshire.

Activities:
Walking and Hiking: the Lake District [Britain's largest National Park]; the 100-mile 'Cotswolds Way'; short and long walks all long the southwest coast, including the 630-mile South West Coastal Path, Britain's longest footpath, Dartmoor National Park; North York Moors and Yorkshire Dales National Parks.
See Walking and Outdoor Activities page.
Climbing: Piles of good climbs, including the Cotswolds and cliffs of the Dorset coast. See above link for more info.
Biking: There are many new, car free travel zones through scenic areas, developed by Sustrans, a UK government body. The Whitby to Scarborough Trailway, 20 miles along the edge of the North York Moors National Park, is one of the most spectacular routes.
Surfing: Yes, really, but you'll need a wetsuit! Especially Cornwall, Newquay's Fistral beach and St Ives are the best known - and North Devon, such as Woolacombe pictured below [Atlantic/north-west coast].

Woolacombe beach, good for both surf and sand castles, on Devon county's north coast.

Beaches:
These are plentiful in England and often have good amounts of sunshine May-Sept. Excellent walks abound, and the water is clean but always chilly.
Stylish Brighton is a Londoner's favourite, but the beaches are stony; Bournemouth, 2 hours from London by car, has 12km of sandy beaches a great promenade and pine-filled air. Both Devon and Cornwall's host excellent sandy stretches on two coasts, the wild north shore offering frequently windy and chilly Atlantic surf while the south coast is more kid-friendly with cute coves ringed with granite outcrops, caves, rock pools and soft sand, though some surf is often evident.

Newcastle, party central, north England, Tyne and Wear county.

Nightlife & Entertainment:
Regional cities in England such as London, Bristol, Birmingham, Manchester and Newcastle have wild and varied clubbing scenes, though provincial places tend to be extremely youth oriented.
*There are plenty of themed tours in England [both guided and non guided] such as 'London Pub Walking tour', 'Liverpool Beatles Magical tour' etc. Information and maps are available at UK regional tourist information centres. *Don't forget to have afternoon tea with homemade cream at countryside inn or cafe.

Travel to the UK

2009-11-01T09:02:00.001-08:00

UK Travel Guide
Concise Information

St Ives, Cornwall, south-west England, UK

This cluster of tiny countries comprising Great Britain - which is England, Scotland and Wales - and Northern Ireland, has 5,000 years of history and a brilliant variety of things to see and do, culture to nature, old to new, silly to serious, whatever suits the tourist - apart from serious sunbathing or skiing.
London and Edinburgh both offer top class arts and culture scenes with superb museums [mostly free], galleries and theatres in settings of great age and historical reference, while the rest of the island spills over with historic buildings, traditional villages, lovely gardens, parks and even mountains.
The British countryside is easily accessible by car and ranges from dramatic moors to bleak mountains to big soft beaches; a walker's delight and not bad for drivers too, if they stick to the smaller roads. See photos of England, Scotland, Edinburgh and London

London, The Guildhall, England.

Downside:
- It's expensive, especially London hotels and even after the crunch year.
- The weather is often lousy and unpredictable, particularly in Wales and Scotland.
- Public transport, especially rail, is expensive, while some sections of the tube [London's underground rail system] are shabby and overheated - the tube was built long, long ago when users were few.
UK climate:
Best: May-Sept.
Worst: Jan-Feb [wet, cold, grey, and short daylight hours].
London and Edinburgh have accommodation problems around New Year [Dec 29-Jan 2], summer time and the Edinburgh Festival [mid July-Aug.]

Scotland, the Highlands, famously bleak and beautiful.

Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not incl. flights: London or Edinburgh only - a long weekend could be excellent.
Recommended: 2 weeks, London, Edinburgh, plus 2 to 3 historical towns and/or the country side [Scottish Highlands, Lake District, etc.]
Wales and Northern Ireland are not often included in package tours, and offer less important 'must sees' unless you have unlimited time or a special interest.

London, Hungerford Bridge and the Thames River, England.

Main attractions:
England:
London and the South:
***London, close to being Europe's coolest city, with something for everyone.
**Bath, an elegant but touristy city, with a real Roman spa and fine examples of early Georgian Palladian architecture. In Somerset, along with wacky Glastonbury.
***Cornwall and **Devon,ranging from bleak moorlands to thatched cottages on rolling grasslands, magnificent beaches, pleasant little fishing villages and good surfing.
The Eden Project, Cornwall. Extraordinary, educational and artistic biospheres housing a zillion exotic plants.
***Dorset. Castles [Corfe and Maiden], beautiful harbour [Poole], great beaches [Poole, Bournemouth and scattered along the south-west coast], Cerne Giant, grand old houses [e.g. Longleat] and superb walks such as:
***The Southwest Coast Path, a lovely 630 mile [1014 kms] clifftop stroll through rural, coastal England and the fossil stuffed Jurassic Coast.
***Stonehenge, an enormous, enigmatic, prehistoric stone circle in Wiltshire, along with Avebury, the Cerne Giant and more.

Durdle Door, Dorset, England

UK Beaches are plentiful and often have goodly amounts of gleaming sand and sunshine May-Sept. Excellent walks abound, though the water is always chilly and the weather can change in a moment.
North of London:
***Oxford, the world's best-known university city, lovely centre, pity about the suburbs.
**Cotswolds, typical English countryside with rolling hills and charming thatched villages.
**Stratford-upon-Avon, Shakespeare's home town.
**Cambridge, a pleasant riverside city with its notable university and gorgeous buildings.
**Chester, the finest Roman and medieval town in the UK [pic top right].
**York, an historic, walled city with the largest cathedral in Europe.
***Lake District National Park, Cumbria, one of the most scenic landscapes in Britain.
*Durham, the most striking cathedral city in Britain.
And all topped off by the decrepit but still impressive**Hadrian's Wall.

Edinburgh's favourite viewpoint, Calton Hill, Scotland.

Scotland:
***Edinburgh, a dramatic and lively city. Edinburgh Pictures.
***The Highlands, splendid landscapes, wilder and more dramatic than the Lake District, with mountains, glens and lochs make for magnificent walks if you can handle the erratic weather and summer midges [little, swarming mosquitoes].
**The Borders, tranquil pastoral country with delightful towns as well as Hadrian's Wall on the English side.
**Stirling and the Trossachs, a compact and historic town with imposing castle.
*Glasgow, an industrial city with a bad reputation, but reinvented as a wacky cultural destination.
*St Andrews, a coastal town with the famous old golf course.

Cardiff Castle, South Wales

Wales:
The capital Cardiff is not a must-see place, except for the National Museum of Wales.
*Conwy, dominated by the marvellous Conwy Castle is one of the finest medieval fortified towns in Europe.
*Hay-on-Wye, has become the world's biggest second-hand booktowns.
**Llandudno, an attractive Victorian seaside resort, with fine sandy beach.
***Snowdonia National Park and mountain. A spectacular and popular area for superb climbing or hiking.

The Giant's Causeway, Antrim, North Ireland.

Northern Ireland:
**the Giant's Causeway, a spectacular volcanic rock formation of basalt columns along the Antrim Coast. A World Heritage Site.
UK Activities:
Walking and Hiking: Numerous short walks and long distance footpaths surround most towns and often cross picturesque scenery in this walks-loving cluster of countries.

Moorland around Mt. Snowdon, Snowdonia, Wales.

Climbing: There are many good climbing spots from the sea cliffs of the Dorset coast to Scotland's Mt. Ben Nevis [1344m], Britain's highest peak. See above link.
Biking: Hundreds of miles of dedicated bike/ walking tracks have been opened recently, as well as road routes. The Whitby to Scarborough Trailway, 20 miles along the edge of the North York Moors National Park, is one of the most spectacular routes.
Bird-watching: the Orkney Isles, Shetland Isles in Scotland, the Norfolk Broads and more.
Fishing: The Borders, Deeside in Scotland and shoals more.
Pony trekking: The Pembrokeshire Coast, Wales or the Pennines, England.
Skiing: Aviemore, Scotland, Britain's biggest skiing centre.

Golf in Harlech, North Wales.

Golfing: From the ancient, lunatic Edinburgh city centre Brunswick Links to St Andrews, there are more than 400 golf courses in Scotland, and not a few in the rest of the UK too.
Surfing: Yes, really, but you'll need a wetsuit! Especially Cornwall - Newquay and Fistral beach are the best known - and North Devon [Atlantic/north-west coasts] plus also Wales and Scotland.
Nightlife & Entertainment: Regional cities such as London, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Bristol, Birmingham, Manchester and Newcastle have wild and varied clubbing scenes, though provincial places tend to be extremely youth oriented.
Tipping:
Waiters will hopefully deserve 10-15% of the bill unless service charge is included. Taxi drivers will be looking for 10%
Intercity Travel
Trains are sometimes on time, sometimes not; they are expensive unless you can book online well ahead.
Intercity buses are much better value and usually make good time.
Some destinations from London by train: Scotland about 6 hours; Wales about 2 hours; Brighton 1 hour; Oxford 1 hour; Cambridge 45 mins; Bristol 2 hours; York 2 hours+; Stratford-upon-Avon 2 hours+; Exeter 3 hours; Bath 1.5 hours;Manchester 2.5 hours; Penzance 5 hours.
Getting around London:
Apart from London's ancient undergound [metro/ subway] or pricey taxis, buses are the best option and reasonably efficient.
Visa advice:
EU citizens are free to travel and work in the UK for any amount of time. Nationals of USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa do not need a visa for up to 6 months holiday, but do need a work visa.
Electricity:
Electric sockets are 240v and take 3 rectangular pin plugs.
Safety:
Tourist places are no problem save for the occasional pickpocket. Take care where you walk after late night booze sessions, particularly in the big cities.
Language
Naturally English is used everywhere though a few Celtic diehards in Wales and Scotland may insist on using their ancient tongues.

Travel to Turkey

2009-11-01T08:56:00.001-08:00

This is a huge country scattered with stunning ancient artefacts and populated by some of the friendliest people on earth. Flowers seem to burst from every crevice, the sun shines endlessly [other than in winter!], transport systems are efficient and the beer's good and readily available.
Scenery ranges from dull to mind-boggling, beaches are fair, prices are low and shopping is excellent, especially leatherware in Istanbul.
Driving is suprisingly safe, apart from mad Istanbul taxi drivers and night driving.

Downside:
- There have been a few Islamic fundamentalist incidents though they are rare and not [yet] targetting tourists.
- The language is a difficult Asiatic tongue and many Turks don't speak a lingua franca like English so communication is not easy outside resort areas.
- The ubiquitous pine trees and profuse flowers are not going to be enjoyed by hay fever sufferers.
- The lovely local people can be 'economical' with the truth.
- Small sites of big interest, i.e. most of them, cannot contain the seething herds of package tourists. And it's not going to get any better...
- Distances between major sights are considerable.
- Turkish wine is a disaster.

Turkey Travel Guide, climate:
Best: April- June, Sept- Nov. For water sports June - Sept. For the eastern part June - Sept.
Worst: Dec-March [cool and damp], Ramadan [Muslim fasting month, Sept 1 - Sept 29 2008; August 22 - September 21, 2009; August 11- September 10, 2010. There's always a lively feast day, Idd al-Fitr, at the end of Ramadan]

Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not incl. flights: 3 days for Istanbul.
Recommended: 2 weeks

Turkey's main attractions:
***Istanbul. A lovely, relaxed, interesting, comfortable city encircled by water. See Istanbul Travel Guide.
***Cappadocia. A seriously weird and wonderful area of fairy chimneys. Calm, pastoral, inexpensive and spectacular, but a distance from anywhere.
**Nemrut Dagi. A superb mountain top scatterd with huge decapitated heads [in stone, need I say?], but a long way to travel. Cold, so best July/Aug and self drive?
*Bursa. A 2,000 year old city - still in use, housing many fine buildings and a famous natural mineral bath.
Pergamum. Also over 2,000 years old, but only ruins now, in the usual Greco-Roman style. Nice and less crowded than Ephesus, but missable unless you're that way inclined. The same goes for Aphrodisias, Didyma and Priene.
*Pamukkale is a bit of a hike from anywhere, and is a shadow of its former glory but steadily being improved. Don't believe the fantastic travel agent pictures or postcards in Istanbul.
**Ephesus is an extensive, very well-preserved typically Roman ruin complex about 3km from the agreeable little town of Selçuk, but small and overcrowded.
**The Aegean/Mediterranean coast. Lots of beaches and ruins between Izmir and Alanya, tho' package tours are spreading like the plague. See Turkey Beaches and Turkey Beach Pictures.
**Bodrum is crowded but still attractive, especially the Kumbahce Bay side. Lots of pedestrian streets and good restaurants. Good base for boat trips. Small beach, big discos.
*Dalyan, by the river, is small, relaxed and quiet, with great views over the water to some Lycian tombs and pleasant boat trips to Turtle beach or the nearby mud baths. Too many bugs but the birdlife is terrific.
***Olu Deniz. Great [shingle] beach, lively town, beautiful setting.
**Patara. Small town, superb sandy beach, dunes, some old ruins.
*Kalkan. Hill/harbour town, quaint but unfocussed, unlike Kas, further down the road. Small beach and marina
**Kas. Uncrowded, pretty and tranquil, with nice little beaches nearby. The coastal road there is gorgeous and it's also a good base for boat trips. Something of a traveller hangout.
*Antalya. On the central Mediterranean coast with pebble beaches, Antalya is large and historic and not far from the dedicated beach towns of Side and Alanya.
Thanks, but no thanks:
Ankara. Turkey's capital has nothing much to recommend it, except perhaps the Museum of Anatolian Civilization.
*Fethiye. Good access to surrounding beaches and ancient sites but the town is very short of character.
*Marmaris, Kusadasi and Alanya. Beach resorts of the package kind that are mainly good for bad tatoos, good chip butties and cafés showing soccer replays, but if that's your travel scene then this will do you fine.

Activities:
Walking/hiking: particularly good in Cappadocia and the Kackar Mountains near the Black Sea. A long distance walk, The Lycian Way, is signposted from Olu Deniz to near Antalya, takes up to a month.
Mountain biking: bikes are widely for rent, and are especially sensational in Cappadocia.
Motorcycling: scooters often for rent, but don't hesitate to bring your own bike. There are lovely coast and Cappadocia roads in reasonable condition, with acceptably safe drivers - though not at night. Petrol is expensive.
Boat trips: long and short trips with varying qualities of guide. particularly famous are the 'Blue Voyages' travelling from ports like Bodrum, Marmaris, Alanya ++.
Watersports: skiing, scuba diving from Marmaris, Bodrum ++.
Hangliding/Paragliding: especially at Olu Deniz.

Troy/Gallipoli:
Seen the film Troy? Well don't make a special effort to see the site unless you are a very keen archeologist. There's little visible save for a pathetic replica of a wooden horse and a lot of rocks, though the adjacent site of Gallipoli strikes an emotional chord with Anzacs [Australians and New Zealanders] whose troops fought the Turkish there in the 1st World War, and, under the definitely misguided and probably moronic British command, died in their thousands.

Turkish Festivals:
Ramadan: a religious month of daytime fasting when people and services can be erratic. Kurban Bayrami: a four day religious festival during which many facilities will be closed and resorts crowded. Sometime between February and April.
Kirkpinar Oiled Wrestling, mid-June, Edirne.
Istanbul International Festival of Arts, late June - mid July, world class music, dance++
Republic Day, Oct, speeches and parades

travel to Switzerland

2009-11-01T08:51:00.001-08:00

Switzerland, Zermatt and the Matterhorn mountain

Switzerland Travel Guide, climate:
Best: June-Sept for summer activities and Dec-March for winter sports.
Why travel around Switzerland?
Yet another quirky little European country, Switzerland is a wonderful combination of spectacularly bumpy landscapes, perfectly aligned fantasy, wooden villages [albeit with modern concrete monstrousities scattered around too], ancient lakeside cities and great efficiency.
Clichés of course but best Swiss experiences involve a combination of the following - viewing of incredible mountains and lakes, taking part in a variet of sporting activities [summer or winter] in stupendous locations, chowing down and drinking up in stylish, old but lively towns or quaint hillside villages.
Getting from place to place is a breeze via the precise domestic transport system - both buses and trains that are only overtaken for punctuality by Japan. Cycling is encouraged with thousands of kilometres of bike lanes both in and out of cities and easy rentals at train stations [if they haven't run out]. Cars drive ever-so correctly and parking is readily available.
In addition Switzerland is super-safe, many locals speak two or three languages including English and the country is loaded with terrific beers, rich food, amazing pastries and chocolate.

Montreux Palace Hotel and BB King

Downsides:
- Switzerland is not a cheap destination.
- don't try anything remotely illegal, [such as crossing the road when the little man is red], this is a very law-abiding state with eyes everywhere [and discreet grey speed cameras that do not register with satnavs!].
- Swiss people - about 65% Germanic - though extremely polite, are, like their climate, cool towards foreigners.
- climatic conditions change suddenly so forget weather forecasts and build flexibility into your schedule; if it's sunny, go up a mountain; if it's cloudy, rent a bike; if it rains, go shopping.

Where to go in Switzerland:
South-west [Lake Geneva, French-speaking]:
**Geneva [Geneve], attractively situated at the southwest tip of Lake Geneva, near France, is cultured and metropolitan, but more of a business and diplomatic centre than party place. Geneva offers a spectacular view of Mont Blanc, a French joie de vivre and lots of lakeside action, including swimming in the summer as well as a great selection of museums and some decent architecture including the ubiquitous old town.
**Lausanne, [pronounced loz-anne] on the other hand and the other side of the lake, really knows how to play, due partly to the university's youth contribution. Steeply tiered, it 's stylish and pleasantly walkable, particularly along the big and tourist-buzzy waterfront but a bit short of the wow factor. Travelling up and down the fairly steep hillside is easy on the autopiloted 'metro' tram.

Vevey

On the east side of Lake Geneva lie three smaller locations of interest:
***Vevey, just a few klicks along the coast, is a small and appealing market town surrounded by grape vines, with a magnificent, quirky promenade, sensational views across the lake, a summer sandy 'beach', various lake activities and not too many tourists, unlike neighbouring Montreux.
*Montreux, 6km further along the lakeside is the affluent and bijou home to the world's best Jazz Festival in July, but spoilt by tourist herds bussed in from Lausanne for a quick wobble along the prom followed by a steamboat trip back to Lausanne [or boating from Lausanne and bussing back].
The 13thC **Chateau de Chillon is a star attraction in this area, next to Montreux and beautifully located, if you can ignore the autoroute humming overhead. This well-preserved castle was popularised by Lord Byron's 'Prisoner of Chillon.'

Chillon Castle on Lake Geneva, backed by Dents du Midi mountain range

The middle [Mittelland, German-speaking]:
***Bern's [Berne] tiny, quiet, riverside elegance is not at all what you would expect of Switzerland's capital. The old town's river-hugged, cobbled streets and arcaded buildings date from the 11thC to the 18thC, though they are not dark, narrow or medieval in aspect, though they do possess a certain grisly humour with statues around dedicated to both bears [the city symbol] and the worst aspects of Grimm's fairy tales [no shortage of ogres!].
Just south of Bern the Lake Thun area affords castle freaks the opportunity to pleasure themselves repeatedly on fine 12th and 13thC fortifications.

Bern old town

***Lucerne [Luzern] is more than just another gorgeous Swiss city. Mix lake, river, mountain, alpine meadows and a colourful, well-preserved old town, throw in a lively youth-oriented street culture, plenty of activities [on and around the lake, up Mount Pilatus or 40 minutes away at Engelberg], simmer gently and you've got the foreign traveller's #1 Swiss role model.

Lucerne [Luzern] lake view

*Basel is wealthy, cultured and convenient, with a pleasant old town and fine museums, but too preoccupied with business to be much fun.
***Zurich, up north, is a far, gnomic cry from its stuffy banking image these days. Gorgeously located astride a river and boxed in by Lake Zurich and distant snowy mountains, the city is a hive of creativity, with a modestly medieval old town and a huge variety of imaginative new establishments to relieve you of your wad.
The miniscule principality of Liechtenstein is two hours away but offers little of interest.

The Swiss National Museum Dance Party, Zurich [ say what?!]

The Alps mountains [south]:
*** The Jungfrau Region towards the country's centre offers the highest and most scenic rail trip, connecting three peaks, the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau, though some argue that the Schilthorn cable-car is cheaper, quicker and more scenic.
**Murren and **Grindelwald towns are good bases for both winter and summer sports, but local hub *Interlaken is too frenetic and a bit too far from the snow action to be a good sports base.
***The Matterhorn is a gloriously peaky Swiss icon and the original model for Toblerone chocolate, while...
***Zermatt at the base of the Matterhorn [picture top of page] is a delightful car-free town where transport is either horse sleigh or electric bus; mountain views are no less than staggering and snow activities are nearly year-round though the skiing is a little strenuous for beginners. Zermatt is pricey but adventurous travellers can jump on the Gornergrat railway and head uphill to the hyper-active, low-cost Iglu Village and sleep in a romantic igloo! [Christmas to mid-April].
There's a ravishing, day-long, panoramic Glacier Express train from Zermatt to St Moritz.
**St Moritz. Very posh, very beautiful, and very expensive, though St Moritz-Bad would be less bad for your wallet than snooty St Moritz-Dorf.

Engelberg view and Wissberg peak, in summertime.

Ticino, Italian region, south Alps:
Warmer and culturally very different from the rest of Switzerland, Ticino sports palm trees, piazzas and pizzas along with the usual lakes, woody hills and medieval old towns. Prime targets are **Locarno and ***Lugano, both on lakes, with the latter offering more views, style and sights.
Local Transport:
Swiss transport is brilliant and trains are the way to go if available. InterRail or Eurail passes offer well-discounted travel, though not on a few spectacular mountain routes.
International Transport:
Roads and railways from the rest of Europe are superb, while boating from Germany, France and Italy is also possible. Buses are a less comfortable option.
Language:
Not a problem in this country which has more multi-lingual ability than any other on earth. A twisted German is the dominant tongue and French second, but everyone can handle English.
Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not including flights: Berne or Lucerne for a romantic weekend, or Zermatt for a sports break.
Recommended: 10 days to get totally knackered at your choice of activity.
Visas:
EU citizens and nationals of USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and Japan do not need a visa for up to 3 months, though you should always carry your passport.
Money:
Contrary to expectations, the local currency is the Swiss Franc [also used by their little brother Liechtenstein], but most places in tourist areas will accept the Euro - though at a cost.
Tipping is not necessary anywhere as 15% service charge is applied to just about everything including taxis.
Costs are on the high side, though cheapish travel in Switzerland is possible if you eat fast food, use a railpass and stay in hostels.

Electricity:
Electric sockets are 230v and are built for three round pin plugs but will accept the usual 2 round pin plugs, fortunately.
Accommodation:
Tourist offices are efficient in listing local rooms/hotels available, often with boards placed outside rail stations. They also hand out 'guest cards' that secure various discounts.
Hotels are not necessarily expensive but hostels are, of course, the cheapest option, though still good quality.
Campsites are good too, mostly open only in summertime. Free camping is not permitted.
Cuisine:
If you're a non-dairy eater then you'll have a problem when you travel around Switzerland, though vegetarians will be unusually fulfilled.
Cheese appears frequently and is the star of Swiss specialities like fondue [dipping bread or potato into melted cheese], raclette [similar] and rosti [cheese-topped grated potatoes].
Lake fish are a popular dish and vegetarian restaurants common.
Those on a budget can find good value set lunch menus or self-service restaurants in department stores.
Safety:
Switzerland is just about the safest place on the planet. Apart from overeating and snow accidents the biggest dangers are likely to be altitude sickness [AMS] or hypothermia when you overestimate your climbing/hiking ability or getting caught by a flash flood while canyoning in summertime.

Travel to Sweden

2009-11-01T08:45:00.001-08:00

The middle of nowhere, Sweden

The largest of the Scandinavian countries, Sweden appears to be little more than a massive forest encompassed by a craggy, fjord-slashed coastline and scattered with 100,000 crystalline lakes, a vast natural force interrupted rarely by the hand of man.
However this clean, green country has scattered gems of sophisticated civilisation, lively, elegant cities full of action and cultural interest - even if they do have a medieval core - and attractive, friendly local people when you get past the initial reserve.
Swedish life is well-organised, highly efficient, very safe and a lot cheaper than it used to be.

Stockholm waterfront

Downsides:
- It can get chilly, or wet, or both, even in mid-summer.
- Endless tree views can be sooo monotonous.
- Swedish cuisine is healthy and hearty but hardly entertaining.
Sweden climate guide:
Best: May, June, early July, Sept.
OK: late July-August [the main Swedish holiday so a very crowded time; some rain in August].
Worst: Nov-April [extreme cold and short daylight hours]
Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not incl. flights: Stockholm for a wild weekend.
Recommended: 9 days to take in Stockholm, another city and some of the countryside, such as a trip to Gotland.

16thC Drottningholm Castle, the Swedish Royal Family's private residence

Sweden's Main Attractions:
***Stockholm, the spirited, handsome capital city has a medieval centre, oceans of water and plenty of activities. See Stockholm Pictures
Near Stockholm:
Ferries around Stockholm are one of the pleasures of tourism in Sweden, either short trips upriver or further out into the Archipelago. [Get a boat pass].
***Take a ferry out to a few of Stockholm's 24,000 nearby islands known as The Archipelago - with varied attractions, harbours, parks, castles and beaches.
**Visit Vaxholm, an idyllic little town with castle, 1 hour from the city.
*Sandhamn [Sandon], popular among summer sailors, one and a half hours from Vaxholm.
***Mariefred, a peaceful town with wooden houses and narrow lanes, famous for its spectacular 16th century Gripsholm Castle. 1 hour by boat, 75km/47m by road from the city.
**Sigtuna, this small, tranquil town dating from AD 970 is the oldest town in Sweden. 46km/29m from the city.
**Uppsala, a quiet, ancient university town with the largest cathedral in Scandinavia and a few good museums. Forty minutes from the capital by train.

Mariefred's 16th century Gripsholm Castle.

Outside the Stockholm area:
**Gothenburg [Göteborg, West coast]. Sweden's largest port and arrival point for herds of tourist cars, Gothenburg is also an attractive, spacious, canal-crossed city with grand buildings from varied eras, fine cultural offerings including a stunning opera house and some excellent museums. Liseberg, a high quality amusement park will give the kiddies a break from culture overdose. nb. the road to Gothenburg from Stockholm is dead boring but the coast north of Gothenburg is rocky and appealing.
**Dalarna and Värmland Provinces [NW, adjacent to Norway, north of Göteborg]: the best of traditional Swedish countryside, unspoilt forests, lakes [esp. Lake Siljan] and ancient villages retaining Swedish folk customs.
***Malmo [SW tip]. Contains one of Europe's most engaging medieval centres and a fast route to Copenhagen [Denmark] via a long bridge.
***Skane Province, SW. A beautiful rolling area of castles and windmills known as chateau country.
***Kalmar [SE island, connected to Oland island], another charming medieval town with a huge history and a fantastic castle.

Visby, Gotland

***Gotland [SE island]. This large island in the Baltic Sea, 90km off Sweden's east coast, provides some of Sweden's best landscapes, sailing, relatively good weather, sandy beaches and the spectacular medieval walled town of ***Visby, with its 100 ancient churches and 3km wall. [A car is not needed, go by train and ferry]
**Beaches: Sweden's south-west coast has many excellent beaches while the southeast islands of Gotland [above] and Oland hosts restrained beach resorts and the country's best climate. A lot of crystal-clear lakes are also swimmable if so posted. We don't need to mention the water is cold?
**Lapland [far north], a massive, wild and unspoilt place of reindeer, mountains, waterfalls, forested valleys and roaring rivers peopled by the Sami [Lapps].
**Gammelstad 'Church Village', Lulea [Norbotten County, NE], a World Heritage Site of 424 tiny old wooden cottages built solely to accommodate visitors to the 15thC church.

Haga Park, Stockholm

Activities:
Swedish tours offer many multi-activity breaks, such as biking, kayaking, rafting and horse-riding in one package. Beware mosquitoes!
Hiking: Sweden is very well organized and trekking is no exception with excellent marked trails, camp sites, mountain cabins and other support for walkers.
The south is good for moderate hikes with scenic views while the far north in Lapland is where to find real isolation, panoramic views, mountains, snow in summertime, wild reindeer and the Sami people and exotic culture. Sweden's best known hike is the 500kms [312mls] Kungsleden from Abisko, north of the Arctic Circle to Hemaven in the south [near Tarnby]. This trail is easy to walk and well serviced but fairly busy, especially in July.
Canoeing/Kayaks: The Stockholm area is a great urban boat experience; head for the southern Archipelago for more strenuous paddling or north to Laponia's World Heritage Site for serious kayaking.
Biking: Cycles are especially useful in cities and widely rentable [free in some hotels]; they are also great for Sweden's more scenic, flatter and drier southern parts e.g Gotland or High Coast UNESCO World Heritage Site on the east central coast. Bikes can be taken on some trains.
Sailing: dinghy rental is available in Stockholm in season. Bigger yachts often do trips including Finland, Norway, denmark or Russia.
Horse riding: There's no shortage of equine rentals in Sweden, with chances of wildlife sightings, such as moose, deer, boar, lynx, eagles. Get details from local tourist offices.
The southern highlands are popular, offering easy access and good weather.
In the north pony treks often start from Funäsdalen, near Norway and Ammarnäs, close to the Arctic Circle.
In the province of Dalarna, you can even rent a horse and covered wagon with space for a small family for multi-day trips, doing around 16 kms [10mls] a day.
Golf: Sweden offers hundreds of delightful courses but one of the most unusual is the Björkliden Arctic Golf Course [the world's most northerly golf course, near Boden] where you can play in a spectacular setting in summertime at midnight!
Fishing: Stockholm in sight of the palace you can fish for salmon, free of charge, by royal decree. Other places you will need a licence. Get more information from a tourist office. Pike, perch, salmon and eel are main targets.

Plenty of summer hiking space, with Norway on the left bank

Getting around Scandinavia:
Transport is extremely efficient in Scandinavia, with good trains [e.g. 6 hours from Oslo, Norway to Stockholm. Get a Rail Pass], buses [from Oslo, 7 hours; from Copenhagen, Denmark, 9 hours]. Ferries are fun and competitive but complicated and few go to Stockholm except from Helsinki, Finland, [16 hours].
There's also a bridge from Copenhagen to Sweden's southern city of Malmo, and masses of flights at low prices from other Scandinavian countries.
Tourist train:
Consider the amazing Inlandsbanan Arctic Circle rail line for incredible views in comfort; best starting from Mora [central Sweden]. It only runs mid-June to mid-September.
Travel inside Sweden:
The best thing about the excellent Swedish transport system is the huge multi-mode Rikstidtabellen timetable that lists everything clearly. Find it in tourist offices and travel agents, but it's too bulky to buy and carry, just copy relevant sections.
Self-driving in Sweden is, frankly, often slow and dull [unless you have a passion for endless forest] while city parking is difficult.
Main Festivals:
Midsummer, June 21: the country's biggest event with lots of dancing, fireworks, boozing.
August: Medieval Week, Visby. Historic dress, music, tournaments and more.
August: Gothenburg Party, Göteborgskalaset, is the biggest outdoor festival in the country.
August: Malmo Festival, music and seafood coming out of its ears.
16-19 August: Skokloster Pageant, varied colourful historical events.
18 August: Midnight Race, 10 kms [6 mls] starting in Stockholm's fashionable Södermalm district.
September: Stockholm Yoga Festival, Liljeholmshallen.
Dec 13: Lucia Festival, robed processions, singing, boozing.
April 30: Walpurgis Night, celebrating the winter's end, fires and fireworks.
Swedish Money:
Local currency is the krona [plural: kronor] and easy to acquire from ATMs which are commonplace, do not charge for the service and give a fair exchange rate.
Tips are included in service charges though a 5-10% gift is not uncommon for good service.
Electricity:
230v, 2 round pin plugs, such as in Norway, Finland, Germany, Netherlands [or twin flat pin Schuko plugs].
Safety:
Sweden is a very safe, low-crime area; the police are superb and generally speak good English.
Language advice:
As usual in Scandinavia many locals speak English though learning basic greetings is a nice gesture.

Kiruna's Ice Hotel bar

Accommodation:
Curiously hotels in Stockholm are cheaper in the summer than during the rest of the year, due to lack of business trade then.
There's generally a wide range of accommodation from luxury hotels to cheap pensions, youth hostels, b-and-bs and many campsites [June-Sept only] that offer full-featured cabins as well as DIY tents. A Scandinavian camping card is essential. Free camping is also permitted if discreet.
Some parks and trails offer mountain huts.
The Jukkasjarvi Ice Hotel freezes from mid December to end of April.
Guest in a Swedish house? Remove your shoes!
Cuisine:
Swedish food is filling and nutritious but nothing to write home about, even if smorgasbord is an international word.
Sweden's cuisine frequently consists of large servings of potatoes, meat [elk and reindeer if you choose] and fish [usually herring or salmon], supported by salad, cheese and fruit - so you won't starve but you may be bored to death.
Fast food - like anywhere in the overdeveloped world - is readily available, with pizzas leading the fat pack.
Beers are good, wine is fine and Sweden's popular vodka equivalent, akvavit, is head-banging.
Visas:
EU citizens and nationals of USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand do not need a visa for up to 3 months travel in Sweden; other Scandinavians don't even require a passport.

Travel to Spain

2009-11-01T08:32:00.001-08:00

The country is soaked in history [conquistadors, the empire, the inquisition...], colourful culture [Bullfighting, Flamenco, Carmen, Don Quixote...], Art [ Picasso, Goya, Velasquez...], wacky visionaries [Gaudi, Dali...], grand architecture [Moorish in the south such as Seville, Baroquish up north in Madrid, twisted in Barcelona and recently there's Bilbao...] and of course plenty of sun, sand and sangria.

A Gaudi balcony on Casa Battlo, Barcelona

Downside:
- Prices are hardly cheap these days.
- The coasts are overbuilt with mainly vile, high rise resorts and apartments, while the beaches heave with German, Russian and British heavyweights fighting for towel space.
- Petty theft such as picking pockets and bag-snatching is not uncommon, particularly in cities such as Barcelona and Madrid. Try not to look like a tourist!
Climate:
Best: April-June, Sept, Oct, tho' the coasts and islands are often fine and warm in winter and the north and mountains cool and less crowded in the summer.
Worst: July, Aug for crowds and extreme heat in southerly areas. Dec-Feb can be bitterly cold [below zero] in the north/central Spain, including Madrid.

Hiking in El Torcal Nature Reserve, near Antequera, Andalusia

Activities:
Spain mostly attracts beach bums or culture vultures, but there are other activities available:
Hiking: Spain has masses of great walking tours from the mountains north of Madrid to the Pyrenees and Picos de Europa. Check [www.picoseuropa.net/] in Spanish for best advice or [www.asturiaspicosdeeuropa.com/] for a good summary of information on North Spain's Asturias and the Picos in English. Also in the Canary Islands
The classic pilgrim's route, El Camino de Santiago [The Way of St James], runs from Navarra to Santiago de Compostela.
Biking: hire to be found in many tourist areas, but roads can be busy, hilly and hot. Stick to minor roads if possible and consider a pro bike tour with full support if the wallet fits. In English [www.hookedoncycling.co.uk/Spain/spain.html] or [www.cyclingcountry.com/] may be able to help you on yer bike.
White Water Rafting: Aragon and Catalonia [esp. Sort village in the Pyrenees].
Golf and tennis: just about everywhere.
Sailing: widely available, check locally.

Tarifa beach, southern Spain, near Gibraltar

Wind/Kitesurfing: at most beaches but aficionados head for pretty and always-windy Tarifa, near Gibraltar or for endless awesome windy beaches head for the Canary Islands.
Surfing: good waves along the Atlantic coast of the Basque Country [Pais Vasco] and off the Canaries but worthless waves on the Mediterranean.
Fishing: check with Federacion Española de Pesca for information. No website.
Climbing: plenty of serious rocks around and the Federacion Española de Montañismo has full details of options, but not in English.
Hang/Paragliding: Castilla y Leon and Castilla-La Mancha have some internationally famous sites for hanging around, while Para people like Valle de Abdalajis, North of Malaga.
Downhill skiing: from Dec-May, especially at Vall d'Aran in Catalonia, Sierra Nevada Ski Station 32 kms north of Granada and Sierra de Guadarrama north of Madrid. Cross -country skiing also.

Fearless firework festivals, especially in Valencia in March

Spanish Festivals:
Feb-March, Carnival time. Especially wild in Madrid, Barcelona, Sitges and Tenerife island.
March, Las Fallas, Valencia. A crazed week-long street party based on fire and fireworks, lots of both.
March- April, Holy Week [Semana Santa] - impressive, colourful parades and music. Especially vibtrant in Seville, Granada and Malaga.
Late April, Feria de Abril, Seville. More wild, horse-oriented celebrations in this lovely city, but this time less restrained - to put it mildly...
July, Bull Running [Sanfermines], Pamplona. Don't be bored, be gored.
Aug [last Wed], La Tomatina, Buñol [Valencia]. The famous tomato street battles.
Language: As usual a tourist's relationship with locals - not to mention ability to haggle politely over prices - will improve dramatically with a few words and phrases of the local language. Fortunately Spanish is a particularly easy language to learn, in fact many regard it as the easiest major language in the world. In addition, think how many countries use it, including California and Florida! So it's well worth making an effort to learn Spanish.
Visa advice:
EU citizens do not need visas, nor do many other country residents - including USA, Canada, Australia and New Zealand, for visits up to 90 days.
Electricity:
Spain electric sockets are mostly 230v and take 2 round pin plugs.
Health:
Spanish pharmacists usually speak good English and have wide powers to prescribe medicines. i.e. try them first for small medical problems. The sign is a fat illuminated green or red cross.

A very hammy Madrid restaurant

Cuisine:
Spanish foods tend to be full-flavoured, rich and leans towards heavy protein content.
Popular with travellers are Paella [sea food with rice], Gazpacho [cold tomato soup] and varied chorizo [sausage]. Tapas [small tasty snacks served with drinks] used to be free but rarely are these days, but are still a good way to eat on the cheap.
Lunch and siesta occupy much of the heat of the day, while dinner is eaten either late or very late by locals.

Travel to Russia

2009-10-02T20:11:00.001-07:00

This vast and diverse country, occupying the top chunk of a continent all the way from Poland to Japan - and a big chunk of world history too - demands travel attention.
The architecture is both glorious and hideous, the history is monstrous, the art is sensational and the people can be touchingly friendly.
Absurd Fabergé eggs? Extraordinary onion domes? Caviar crepe? Yes, please.
A hard day's White Night in St Petersburg? Slamming vodka with your taxi driver in Moscow? Da!
Big, brutal, beautiful and intriguing, Russia is an enigma that's got to be sampled by any serious traveller.
Downside:
- Most of Russia is no longer cheap though there is plenty of budget accommodation available.
- Hygiene can be a problem.
- Officials are often unpleasantly boorish.
- Crime and corruption in the cities require an ever-open eye.
- Despite the size of the country, internal flights are unreliable and Russian airlines have the world's worst safety record.
Russia Travel Guide, climate:
Best: May, June, Sept, Oct.
[July/August can be wet and stuff gets booked up, especially long-distance trains in August and Black Sea resorts, this is Russian holidays]
Worst: Nov-March [winter is long, dark and extremely cold with short days, but the snow scenes will be stunning. Early Spring is muddy, slushy and falling icicles kill!]
Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not including flights: Moscow or St Petersburg are excellent for a wild and wooly underwear weekend.
Recommended: 2 weeks to take in Moscow, St Petersburg and some of the surrounding towns - such as the Golden Ring - and countryside.
The Trans-Siberian Railway to Irkutsk [Lake Baikal] will require at least 5 days.

Russia's main attractions:
***Moscow, a diverse and interesting city with masses of history, action and must-see spectacles, though not on the same planet as St Petersburg for architectural elegance.
***St Petersburg, one of the world's most beautiful cities, with many splendid buildings and museums, including the spectacular Hermitage, with a sophisticated service industry.
***Novgorod, 190 km [118mls] south of St Petersburg, an important political and artistic centre from the 9th century and still holds a wide and varied collection of magnificent structures including Russia's oldest cathedral, frescoes galore, and plenty of glorious oddities.
***The Golden Ring, a few hours travel northeast of Moscow, are a collection of attractive historic towns dating from the 16th and 17th centuries.
These can be visited on day trips, but better, hire a car or join a boat with a guide and take your time to enjoy:
***Suzdal, the most important town in the Golden Ring, Suzdal used be a political and religious centre and has more than fifty quaint and well-preserved old structures. About 210km [131 mls] from Moscow.
It is a major tourist attraction, yet still retains an enchanting, pre-Soviet atmosphere.
**Vladimir is famed for its Golden Gate and two splendid cathedrals. About 180km [112 mls] from Moscow.
**Rostov. This quiet, rustic town offers the usual churches but also a lovely lake and spectacular kremlin.
**Yaroslavl is much bigger than other towns in the Ring but totally crammed with gorgeous churches, if you haven't seen enough. 250kms [156mls] from Moscow.
**Irkutsk, the 'Paris of Siberia', is a long way from anywhere except Mongolia, but is on the Trans-Siberian train route [see more info left] and well worth a stop-off. The city is mostly charming, with considerable Chinese influence and some magnificent architecture, including typically elaborate Siberian 'gingerbread' houses.
Another of Irkutsk's attractions is the proximity to lovely, 636km [398mls] long Lake Baikal where hiking, biking, horse trekking, fishing and boating are big time.
The north end is the most beautiful and isolated.Listvyanka village is a popular place to stay for tourists.
***Cruising the Volga River via some superb old towns like Kazan [ancient Tatar city], Shiryaeva and Ulyanovsk [Lenin's birthplace]. See Boat cruises, left.
**Black Sea, Sochi. This is a Russian beach resort town with a warm climate and sophisticated health spas [sanatoria], with beaches and tennis courts, scenically situated at the foot of the Caucasus Mountains.
** Yekaterinburg in the Ural Mountains is a pretty, pleasant city except perhaps for Tsar Nick II and his family who met their end here and the USA's U2 spy pilot who was shot down in the area.
The place offers excellent architecture, museums, entertainment and access to the Urals for varied activities.

The Trans-Siberian Railway
This week long, non-stop 10,000km [6,000mls] or so ride travels from Moscow to either:
- Vladivostok on Russia's Pacific coast.
- via Mongolia to Beijing.
- via Manchuria and Harbin to Beijing.
This is reputedly one of the world's great train journeys but does not necessarily deliver a comfortable or fascinating experience for everyone.
TS train downside:
- there are no showers, except for a few lucky 1st class travelers.
- conditions will be cramped.
- dining car food will be abysmal.
- the scenery is mainly dull, tending towards endless forests and grassy plains, interspersed with the occasional log cabin, log village or vast lake. The train stops for 10 minutes a few times a day, leaving no time to explore, just time to aquire emergency supplies from the platform.
- As a consequence, life on the train is paramount, and this depends on various factors coming together. Is your car attendant cordial? Are your fellow passengers interesting? Does anyone snore? Do you mind living off fairly basic food for six days? Can you happily stare out of a dirty window looking at birch trees for hours on end? Is TV an integral part of your life? Do you have a good selection of books with you? Do you like vodka? And so on...
TS train upside:
- you can arrange to take a stop over at key points en route, for example attractive Irkutsk [see Russia travel favourites, right] and nearby huge, mountain-hemmed Lake Baikal. Siberian timber buildings are often charming, colourfully decorated and carved.
- due to the fame of the train and the number of serious travellers on it there will almost always be someone interesting you can find to chat to for days, though a good companion and a monster picnic hamper [loaded with - you've guessed - vodka] would be a useful starting point.
- if you are actually going east/west for a purpose - such as for work in Japan or China - you will be saving the air fare.

Train Survival hints:
- don't drink the tap water. A samovar [hot water pot] in each carriage supplies sterile water.
- clean your window to improve views and photos.
- stand well clear when flushing the toilet, it can backfire if the train travels at speed.
- learn a few key Russian phrases to charm your surly attendants.
- take lots of vodka with you. You can buy some snacks, fruit, cigarettes etc during 15 minute stops at stations, but no alcohol, and you will be doing a lot of socialising!
Activities:
The country is spacious - to say the least - and outdoor activities are popular but facilities and safety measures can be primitive so get specialist advice before undertaking anything halfway dangerous.
Hiking: There is no shortage of excellent trekking terrain, just a shortage of marked trails or maps, so extracting information from locals regularly is essential and as a consequence a few words of the language are vital. Either that or hire a good guide.
Lake Baikal [see Russia travel favourites, right], the Elbrus area of the Caucasus, west Ural Mountains and Altay Mountains are prime targets. Check the travel safety situation.
White Water rafting: The Katun River in the Altay Republic, Vladisvostok and Kamchatka.
Climbing: The Elbrus area of the Caucasus are superb but get specialist advice before arriving in Russia, safety aspects included.
Cycling: roads are often in bad shape, cars and drivers even worse shape, but bike travel can still be rewarding, with care, a tough bike and essential spares. Local hospitality is tremendous.
Canoeing: rivers can be heavily polluted so inland water travel is difficult to recommend, though the Volga River delta is supposed to be alive and delightful, while the coasts up north offer prospects of isolated adventure.
Boat cruises: either on posh tourist boats or cheap, dilapidated Russian craft.
The main highway is the Volga River and boats go to/from Moscow, Novgorod, Volgograd and many other attractive cities.
Volgograd to Rostov-Don is supposed to be the most interesting section. June-September only.
Fishing: mostly salmon out east e.g. from Vladivostok and Khabarovsk.
Skiing: Cross country skiing is traditionally more popular than down-hill skiing; snowboarding is becoming increasingly popular and heli-skiing is available and remarkably good value.
There are more than a hundred ski areas, many of which need modernisation, though some resorts in the Caucasus Mountains offer good facilities and comfortable accommodation.
For instance, Cheget in the Baksan Valley offers challenging runs, including the longest of 2.5 km; or Mount Elbus - Europe's highest peak at 5,642m [1,8513 ft] - hosts one of Russia's largest resorts, Prielbrusye.
There are at least 20 ski slopes within 50 miles of Moscow and some can even be reached by metro!
Ice Skating: Possibly the country's most popular pastime with frozen lakes and outdoor rinks all over during the long winter and even indoor rinks open in the summer. Inexpensive and very cheerful.
Banya bathing: this Russian style sauna is a good way to experience authentic Russian social life, particularly if you are a graduate of an old British public school where extreme heat, cold and beatings were a way of life.
There are banyas everywhere, ranging from appallingly dilapidated to highly polished.
Local transport:
The big cities have good metro and bus services at low prices.
Locals enjoy life as illegal taxi drivers for extra cash. Beware though, some are pure evil, others wonderful, hospitable guides.
Hitch-hiking is common for Russians but not advisable for tourists.
Intercity travel:
Trains connecting Moscow to St Petersburg are common, efficient and inexpensive. The Aurora day train takes 6 hours, the evening train 4 hours.
Passenger boats are common between cities - tho' slow - including Moscow to St Pete.
For exploring the countryside around big cities consider car hire, with or without a driver/guide. It's not expensive and very convenient.
International travel:
Moscow and St Petersburg are both easy to reach from many European cities by fast, efficient trains and buses; other Russia cities are more difficult to access directly.
Safety:
Travel to Chechenya and the north Caucasus is not recommended; check the Foreign Office site or tour operators for up-to-date information. Otherwise stay on the regular tourist routes.
Don't flash your cash!
Pickpocketing and bag filching may occur on crowded public transport while hotel rooms are by no means thief-proof. Lock everything into your bags before leaving the room and use a safe deposit if there is one.
Take care with taxis. Don't get in if there is anyone other than the driver inside, and don't necessarily trust the driver.

Visas:
All visitors need a visa which will require at least a one day hotel or hostel booking. The hotel will then help organise the visa.
Health:
Do not drink Russian tap water, not even for cleaning your teeth.
Check you are up to date with all jabs, and consider including vaccinations for diptheria, typhoid, hepatitis A and B.
A flu jab is also useful if you plan to travel to Russia in spring or autumn when the bugs are rampant.
Beware mosquito-borne diseases in Siberia's summertime. Keep the blighters off!
Foreigners usually prefer to be treated at private clinics, which are very costly. Get Insurance!
Accommodation:
You are supposed to have a place booked in order to get a tourist visa.
There's a wide range of accommodation from luxury hotels at silly prices to cheapish hostels at around $20 pn, but it's important to book well ahead for the June-September season.
Private home stays are widespread, giving the tourist relatively good value rooms and a close look at real Russian life. The downside is that the place may be out of the way, the bed lumpy and the morning-after breakfast provider in-your-face during your recovery time.
Camping is fine in many places though - as usual - check with locals before bedding down. Organised camping sites are rare and usually open mid-June to mid-September.
Russian Festivals:
25 Dec- 5 Jan, Russian Winter is celebrated with traditional activities such as music, dance, sleigh rides, folk shows. New Year's Eve tends to be a family/friends occasion, so not wildly exciting.
late Feb-early March, Goodbye Russian Winter, as above.
Easter Sunday, Moscow, procession and service in stunning Kolomenskoe [Orthodox] church.
April/May, Moscow Music Spring Festival, classical music.
May 9, Victory Day Parade, Moscow. A stirring military procession.
June, the White Nights arts festival is St Petersburg's liveliest event.
April/May, St Petersburg Music Spring Festival, classical music.
Cuisine:
You can eat well and inexpensively nowadays, especially in cafés and fast food places in the cities.
Do choose places that look clean and are busy, poor hygiene could result in intestinal blowout.
Moscow and St Petersburg in particular have seen an astronomical growth in cafés, bars and restaurants, including classic Chinese, Japanese and Italian offerings, western fast food chains and traditional Russian cuisine.
Russian food tends to be rich and on the heavy side in winter, such as meaty dumplings, meaty cabbage rolls, cabbage soup with sour cream, and the national icons - borscht [beetroot soup], blinis [pancakes] and caviar, while lighter foods like superb soups and salads are around in the summer.
Avoid eating shellfish except in St Petersburg and street ice-cream anywhere.
Drinks:
Most of us know the varied pleasures of vodka, particularly drunk chilled and in one gulp, but Russia also does a fine line in local beers with lively flavours, good champagne, not such good wine, passable tea and effective coffee.
Russians love to press drinks on foreigners so prepare your excuses now. Or practice chugging.
Costs:
Moscow is now the most expensive city in the world, but elsewhere Russia can be good value if you don't mind slightly crude accommodation and eat/drink at local establishments rather than typical tourist places.
Change money for roubles only at official exchanges or banks. Cash is easier to change than travellers cheques.

Tipping advice:
About 10% to taxi drivers and 10-15% to waiters in restaurants.
Electricity:
Electric sockets are 230v and take 2 round pin plugs.
Internet:
There are masses of reasonably priced web cafés in bigger cities.
Language:
Some locals speak English, French, or German but ability to recognise the Cyrillic alphabet and a few words of Russian would really help your experience along.
Internet:
Russia has plenty of good value web cafés now in all but the most remote locations.

Travel to Romania

2009-10-02T19:52:00.001-07:00

A new, mountainous yet flat-busted member of the European Union, Romania is an ancient place of magnificent soaring landscapes buzzing with wildlife and travelled by peasants in horse-drawn carts, interspersed with primitive farms, monasteries, medieval towns and dramatic castles inhabited by Dracula legends.
Hosted by generally friendly and occasionally colourful people of mixed cultural backgrounds, Romania is one of Europe's least-developed countries, a place to step back in time - but be quick, Brussels bureaucrats are already imposing daft and oppressive regulations, while malls, office blocks, mobile phones and ski-runs are spreading like fungus and country folk are rushing for better paid work elsewhere in the EU.
Downside:
- Beggars can be a whingeing pain.
- Taxi drivers are skunks in human form so carefully agree prices beforehand but be prepared for still further demands. See 'Taxis' below.
- Neither gypsies nor gays are popular.
Romania climate guide:
Best: May-September [though mid-summer can be excessively hot]. Winter [December-February] is good only for low-price ski holidays.
Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not including flights: Bucharest for a couple of days or a long and weird medieval weekend in Transylvania.
Recommended: 14 days to explore the place properly with a hike or two.

Romania Attractions:
**Bucharest, the capital, is a necessary tourist evil and an integral part of the Romanian experience. It's changing rapidly but still scattered with fine old architecture, a couple of good museums, huge megalomanic relics of Ceausescu's heavy handed rule, nutty pedestrian-threatening traffic, fine eating at the right price and boisterous nightlife.
***Transylvania is a place of medieval streets and fortifications, majestic mountains, multicultural traditions, caves, forests and bears.
Of particular interest are:
the charming, hilltop citadel town of Sighisoara; the fortified Saxon villages of and around Sibiu [and its superb open-air museum of Romanian rural life, Muzeul Astra]; the stunning gothic section of Brasov [as opposed to the unpleasant modern bit]; the spectacular turreted castle at Bran built in 1377 by the Saxons and reputedly home to Count Dracula; another terrific, even spookier fortress nearby at Rasnov; and finally a new Carnivore Centre [zoo] at Zarnesti.
***The Carpathian Mountains, just a couple of hours from Bucharest are a grand and pointy hiker's heaven scattered with quaint villages and offering low-cost skiing in winter. [Picture top right].
***North Moldavia/South Bucovina regions are known for their fantastically painted UNESCO Heritage monasteries, such as Voronet [the 'Sistine Chapel of the east'] or Moldovita.
**The Merry Cemetery in Sapanta village, Maramures region, sports gorgeously painted - and often humorous - grave accessories that have been exhibited to great acclaim across Europe.
**Timisoara in the far west of the country is perhaps the most westernized of Romanian cities but still dominated by forts and cathedrals and home to relaxed, cosmopolitan inhabitants.
*The Danube Delta, a UNESCO World Heritage site is a prime target for anglers.
**Black Sea Resorts are hot to trot from spring to autumn. The best facilities on the Romanian coast, including a 10km beach, may be found in Mamaia.

Taxis:
Only take taxis with a numbered plaque on the outside, and even then carefully check the cost of your trip before setting off.
'Private' taxis will probably be driven by demons freshly arrived from the gates of Hell.
Getting to Romania:
Although international flights to the country are frequent, so are trains from most of Western Europe. The trains are low-cost, comfortable, no vast check-in lines and you get to see stuff on the way!
Check out the good value Balkan FlexiPass if you plan to travel a lot in the area.
Buses are available too, but not cheap.
Trains are also the best way to get around Romania.
Romania activities:
Hiking and skiing: An excellent walking country through wild and rural landscapes; the Carpathians are the most spectacular mountains in Romania, relatively untouched by human foot and barely two hours from Bucharest.
Bird watching and fishing: The Danube Delta is home to over 300 species of bird as well as varied animals and freshwater fish in its numerous lakes and marshes.

Main Festivals:
n.b. Folk music and dance is a major cultural activity in this country so expect to see plenty of this activity during festivals.
- June, Fundata Fair in Fundata near Bran, a folklore fair.
- Mid July for 3 days, Mount Gaina Maiden Fair, a song and dance about marriage; half-way up a mountain so climbing there is the first step.
- June 23, Sanziene Midsummer Festival in Maramures. Fairies in the ether and garlands of flowers everywhere else.
- 3rd week July for 3 days, East European Vintage Motorbike Rally in Turda, a town with a lovely atmosphere, classic architecture and a rich past.
- End of July for 3 days, Medieval Days in Sighisoara, a delightful fortified town; two weeks of theatrical shows - professional and amateur - all over the citadel, as well as painters, sculptors, body painters and fantastic costumes.
- Third Sunday of August, Hora la Prislop in Maramures, a celebration of traditional popular arts, with song, dance and folk costumes.
- September, Sambra Oilor, a sheepish event in Bran.
- September, Chamber Music Festival in Bran and Brasov.

Visa information:
EU citizens and nationals of USA, Australia and New Zealand do not need visas for visits up to 90 days.
Electricity:
Electric sockets are 230v and take 2 round pin plugs.
Safety:
Crime is rare but as usual take precautions against pick-pocketing and bag filching. DON'T change money in the street.
Cuisine:
Romanian cooks tend to focus on meats [especially in soups and on grills, meatballs or sausages are big] but vegetarians won't find life particularly difficult with vegetables appearing in soups, stews or mixed and fried, while fish [grilled carp, herring or sturgeon] and cheeses [fried in batter or inside pastries] are also served.
You will find a variety of ethnic eateries - especially in Bucharest - as well as fast foods joints if you're dying for a artery-choking fatburger.
Reasonable lager beers and wines are on the market though many locals prefer - at any time of the day or night - a hit of the potent and locally produced tuica, a plum brandy.
Language:
Romanian is the native language but many locals speak excellent English.
Money:
The currency is the Ron and prices are moderate-low. ATMs are plentiful in towns, so DON'T change money in the street and be extremely wary of extortionate commissions charged by exchange offices.
Tipping:
Romanian workers are paid little and depend on tips, so tip waiters [5%-10%], porters and even the rare good taxi driver, but not much.
Beggars:
The majority are professional, including children.
Internet:
No problem in towns.
Transylvania live

Portugal

2009-10-02T19:41:00.001-07:00

Obidos, Portugal

This little country is loaded with superb beaches, good surf, amazing castles, churches and monasteries and has unique architectural art in the shape of Manueline decor and azulejos tiling.
Great summer weather is guaranteed, seafood is excellent and reasonable value and locals are reserved but friendly, especially towards people NOT speaking Spanish.
Crime rates are low and fast long-distance driving is easy on magnificent new, well-signed motorways.
Downside:
- The countryside is often unattractive and disappointing, especially the Algarve away from the beaches.
- The sea, being the Atlantic Ocean, is on the cool side.
- Car travel in many towns is a nightmare of narrow one-way streets and endless traffic jams caused by medieval roads trying to handle a recently affluent 4-wheel society.

Part of Portimao's massive, striking beach. Pity about the high-rise dominated hinterland.

Portimao beaches are terrific but package hotel territory these days.
In previous lives this port town was fought over by Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Christians and Moors. Then in 1755 the monster quake that flattened Lisbon did the same for this area, encouraging its next incarnation as a major fishing port.
Until very recently it remained so - until the developers invaded and established a hundred high-rise hotels all at once onto the coastal strip. Now it's solid gold, pack-man land, an upmarket Albufeira but with even less traditional Portugal style; like, er, zero.
Praia da Rocha, next door, is the best known surfer's beach on the Algarve's south coast.
Portugal climate guide:
Best: June - September, and you can expect it to be very hot July-August.
OK: April, May, October. This is a maybe time. Maybe wonderfully sunny and warm, maybe rainy and cool, it's a gamble.
Worst: November - March. Cool and often wet, including the Algarve
Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not incl. flights: Lisbon for a weekend.
Recommended travel time: A couple of weeks to see Lisbon, some of the nearby towns such as Sintra, Obidos, Evora or hit the beaches around Cascais [west] or Caparica [south].

Portugal's Main Attractions:
***Lisbon has a lot to offer, though it's not quite up to the capital standards of some bigger neighbours. ***Sintra. Not so much for the old town, but for various parks, gardens and four spectacular buildings in and around it - the 14thC twisted gothic Palacio Nacional, the fantastical Quinta da Regaleira, and up a cool forested hill, the superbly atmospheric Moorish Castle and the totally Disney Palacio de Pena - with a fascinating royal family life museum.
45 minutes by train from Lisbon.
***Obidos. The most striking of Portugal's hilltop walled towns, Obidos is perfection, within easy travel of Lisbon and well worth an overnight stay in a cute little pensao to enjoy the ramparts and streets without the company of packaged people. Book ahead!

Sights stuffed Evora town

***Evora. Probably the most interesting town after Lisbon; World Heritage Evora is stuffed with a variety of sights and a mere hour from Lisbon. Don't try and drive into the city! Park outside the walls.
Nearby is the largest group of prehistoric stones in Europe, the 95 monoliths [Almendres] of Cromeleque. Accessed through a gorgeous cork forest, these are smaller stones than Stonehenge, but totally devoid of commerce, restrictions or even other people most of the time.
***The Algarve is culturally a near desert and apart from the beaches a scenic dead loss. The strands of sand, however, are huge, clean and often characterful, though the water is cool and may be choppy too.
*** Marvao. Another gorgeous walled hilltop town, in a prettier landscape than Obidos and with fewer tourists, but a little distant.
**Scenic countryside. Not much around, but the rolling hillocks and cork trees of Alentejo are lovely, especially carpeted with yellow and purple flowers in May.
The terraced valley and gorge of Douro, popularly seen via a rickety railway, is stunning, and could be combined with a trip to Porto [below] and Stone Age art at Vale do Coa, where thousands of Palaeolithic drawings can be seen on 17km of rocks.
Minho, in the far north is wet, green and mountainously rural, with good beaches and featuring Portugal's religious capital Braga. Braga's 35 churches include a popular pilgrim's target - Bom Jesus do Monte.
** Porto. Portugal's second city sports some arresting buildings, a World Heritage district of tiled terraced houses beside the river and a barrel load of wine tasting lodges.
*Coimbra: A pretty riverside university town and Portugal's capital in the 1145 AD, but Coimbra hardly deserves the travel hordes it gets.

Another outrageously ornate church, loaded with azulejos

***Churches/Monasteries. Even atheists will enjoy some of the madly magnificent religious structures scattered around the country.
Some notable ones are the Convent of Christ at Tomar where the Knights Templar were based, Batalha Abbey, Alcobaca monastery, Evora's Misercordia and the bone chapel in Sao Fransisco, Mafra's Palace/Monastery, Lisbon's Jeronimos monastery for the ultimate Manueline decor and Sao Vicente de Fora monastery [NOT the church as some guide books say!] for the best in story telling azulejos.
Car Travel:
Motorways: With superb EU funded motorways and excellent signposting fast intercity travel in Portugal is a cinch.
But few drivers observe the 120kph [75mph] limit, many travelling well in excess of 160kph [100mph].
So DON'T force your little rental car to slowly overtake another vehicle unless you fancy a lunatic 4x4 or BMW sitting on your bumper at high speed; DO keep your eyes on the mirror and give those nutters plenty of space, they cause a lot of accidents.
Towns: Old town driving is another matter entirely. Streets are often medieval, extraordinarily narrow, complicatedly one way, and traffic jammed.

Activities:
Hiking: Not a Portuguese pastime and mostly lacking in spectacular views, determined walkers can nevertheless find good trails. The most scenic are in the north e.g. Parque Natural da Serra da Estrela, Parque Nacional da Peneda-Geres and Parque Natural de Montesinho.
The Algarve has many walks, but lacks natural beauty unless you hike along the coast.
August-February, a couple of days a week is hunting season, so check locally if you might be walking into a shooting arena.
Biking: Mountain biking is fashionable and bikes can be rented in many tourist areas. Some locations even offer guided bike travel e.g. the Algarve, Sintra and National Parks.
Surfing: One of Europe's best surfing destinations due to a high level of sunshine and consistent [though not necessarily huge] waves along the whole west coastline.
Wind/kite surfing: commonplace and often sharing space with board surfers at beaches like Guincho and Rocha.
Pros especially enjoy regular high winds on Portugal's SW tip, near Sagres.
Swimming: Buckets of great beaches with soft sand and lots of character, see Algarve, right.
Snorkelling/Scuba: cold and fairly dull.
Golf: The south of the country is where most of the great courses are, with the Algarve leading at 26 championship course.

Main Festivals in Portugal:
Feb/March, Carnival. Various colourful festivities during the last days before Lent.
March/April: Easter Week Festival in Braga, with bizarre processions.
From 1st Thursday of May for 2 [?] weeks, Coimbra, Queima das Fitas, wild end of year celebrations at 'Portugal's Oxford'.
12-13 May, Fatima Romarias [in Fatima]. Severely religious mass pilgrimage event.
12-13 June, Festa de Santo Antonio, a night long street fair, esp. in Alfama and Mouraria districts.
20-24 June, Festa de Sao Joao, nationwide [23-24] but longer in Porto.
Around 20 August, Festa da Nossa Senhora da Agonia, Viana do Castelo, a very lively celebration with parades, fireworks and art shows.
12-13 October, Fatima Romarias [in Fatima]. Severely religious mass pilgrimage event.
Electricity:
Electric sockets are 230v and take 2 round pin plugs.
Safety advice:
Crime is uncommon, though as usual, pickpockets are active in areas frequented by tourists. Be especially careful on Lisbon's famous Tram 28!
There have been rare attacks/robberies by gangs in Lisbon, Porto, Estoril and Cascais, so be sensible about flashing valuables and where you walk late at night.

Language:
Portuguese is similar to Spanish in many ways, though they are not over-fond of their Spanish neighbours so English is in some ways better to use than good Spanish. Or start with English and switch to Spanish if necessary?
Whatever, at least learn Bom Dia, Boa Tarde, Desculpe, Por Favor, Obrigado and Adeus/Chao.
Cuisine:
Portuguese cuisine tends towards the solid and not particularly cheap in tourist areas, but pick the right place in one of Portugal's more sophisticated areas, such as Lisbon's Bairro Alto or the Algarve's Lagos, and you can have an excellent, interesting meal for a reasonable price.
Seafood is particularly impressive, and of this type, sardines are the best value.
Bacalhau - salted cod - is the national dish and is served in a zillion different ways, many of them edible.
Away from Lisbon and the Algarve food is much better value.
good value snacks are commonly available, including filling soups for lunch - though soup is not normally served alone.
One of the Portugal's most unique customs is the almost obligatory cover charge for bread, butter, olives and some kind of paste.
Coffees are wonderful and house wines are drinkable by all but connoisseurs. Try a glass of cold white port too.
Local beers are OK, and the black/stout beers are better than OK.

Norway Travel Guide

2009-09-29T15:05:00.001-07:00

Geiranger Fjord

Why Travel to Norway?
This country is primarily about monumental views of mountains, fjords, waterfalls and glaciers with the occasional stave church thrown in.
Outdoor experiences range from spectacular summer walks to year round skiing, though coach potatoes will also be pleasured by superbly scenic train, bus, ferry and self-drive car trips.
It's also clean and efficient, safer than just about any country barring Japan and Scandinavian siblings, and has the most careful and law-abiding drivers we've ever been held up by.

A traditional Norwegian stave church

Downside:
- Like the rest of Scandinavia it's expensive, especially alcohol.
- Booze is also not that easy to find out of town centres since most Norwegians drink at home.
- Urban life is often less than wildly exciting, particularly if you have a tight budget.
When to Travel to Norway:
Best: May-Sept
The Midnight Sun occurs in the far north from mid-June to mid-July.
Worst: Winter [short, dark days], unless you want to either ski or see the northern lights.
Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not incl. flights: 4 days, Oslo - Bergen.
A reasonable time: 10 days.

Oslo harbour, City Hall [the nasty brick lump], and Akershus Fortress on the right

Norway Main Attractions:
**Oslo. Not a particularly attractive city but it's a good place to stroll and worth a day or two for the museums, Viking relics and especially the amazing sculpture park, Vigeland.
**Risor [2/3 hours south of Oslo], a very picturesque fishing village.
***Bergen. This port town, with its evocative mass of pretty wooden buildings and plentiful culture, is a popular trip from Oslo - the 7 hour train ride is a scenic masterpiece - and a natural starting point for fjordland experiences.
***Stavanger's 900 year-old town includes a striking 18thC wooden district, a medieval cathedral and a fine collection of museums.
***Fjords. You can't leave Norway without cruising the stunning fjords. Geirangerfjord and Sognefjord are the two prettiest, with the former offering a terrific waterfalls bonus while the latter is nearer to Bergen.
*** Geiranger, on the fjord shore. A tiny village surrounded by mountains, waterfalls and tourists, this is prime hiking country, but book accommodation in advance.
*** Jostedalsbreen National Park is a popular hiking destination with many well marked trails, plentiful accommodation, and natural splendour in spades, including 50 glaciers.
**Tromso. Way up north and well into the arctic circle Tromso [aka 'Gateway to the Arctic'] is unusually lively and culturally rich, possibly due to the world's most northern university being situated there. This is a good base for winter skiing or summer wilderness hiking.
Transport:
Buses, trains and domestic planes are highly efficient, though not frequent and costly.
This is a great country for self drive, with magnificent views and safe roads, but car hire is expensive. Bring your own wheels!
Activities:
Driving: an excellent way to explore the land, with stupendous views and totally safe native drivers, but watch out for elk [moose] or reindeer.
Biking: surprisingly common considering the hilly nature and grand distances of the country, but bike hire is readily available just about anywhere. Car drivers are very careful and competent.
Hiking: plenty of great hikes not far from Oslo, from plateaux to glaciers. Geiranger and Jotunheimen are renowned hiking spots.
Fishing: fjord fishing has to be at the apex of ambient fishy experiences, tho' freshwater fishing is also available. Licences are necessary and readily available.
Skiing: all year round, with glacier skiing in summer time, esp. around Jotunheimen.
Boat Cruises: short or long fjord cruising is one of the must-dos here, and Sognefjord is the classic spot.
Mountain climbing: if you can handle low temperatures there's no shortage of serious, beautiful climbs along the whole length of the country, but stick to summertime!
White water rafting: from half a day to 2 days.
Festivals:
Easter, *Sami [Lapp] traditional celebrations in the north, esp. Karasjok, including reindeer racing.
May 17, ***Constitution Day - the country's most colourful day, with national costumes coming out of the closet.
June, *Midsummer's Eve Big parties and big, beach bonfires.

A genuine Viking longship in the Viking Museum, Oslo

Museums/galleries:
The Viking Museum with three real ships, the Kon-Tiki Museum and the huge open-air Norwegian Folk Museum are all in Oslo and interesting.
Visas:
EU citizens and nationals of USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand do not need a visa for up to 3 months travel in Norway; other Scandinavians don't even require a passport.
Electricity:
Electric sockets are 230v and take 2 round pin plugs.
Language:
As usual in Scandinavia, many locals speak English though learning basic greetings is worth the trouble.

Bergen, Norway's prettiest town and main activity centre

Money:
The Krone is the local currency and you'll need a lot of them to enjoy Norway. Fast food and/or camping can keep expenses down.
Tipping is not strictly necessary in restaurants, but 5-10% for waiters and taxi drivers seems to be accepted practice.
Safety:
No worries at all here unless having your car savaged by an elk is a problem for you.
Cuisine:
A great place for lovers of excellent and varied seafood or exotic meat dishes such as reindeer or elk, but oceanically deep pockets will be required.
Vegetarians will have a hard time finding anything interesting to eat.
Many travellers on a budget survive on fast food, sandwiches at Konditori [bakeries], or supermarket purchases, with opportunistic stuffing at hotel breakfast buffets.

Oslo is not one of the most appealing cities, compared to other European capitals, but this spacious city has a quite few prime sights, particularly museums, and no shortage of outdoor attractions and activities around the city.
The Vigeland [sculpture] Park is especially interesting. See below.
It's clean, calm and is an ideal place for stop at before or after going for a Norwegian fjord experience.
Downsides:
Life in general is very expensive, and it can be extremely chilly even in summer months
Oslo climate guide:
Best: May-Sept [for long, sunny days]
Worst: Jan, Feb [very cold, short dark days]
Main Attractions:
**Akershus Fortress, a medieval castle built around 1300 and modernized in the 17thC. It holds the Resistance Museum and Defence Museum, displaying a history of the Nazi occupation and the Norwegian resistance in WWII. Even if war is not your favourite subject the site is green and pleasant, and the view overlooking the city and harbour is worthwhile. During the summer, it hosts events such as concerts, dances and plays.
***Vigeland [Frogner] Park, a superb sculpture park [picture top right] with many and curious life-size statues by one of the country's best-known artists, Gustav Vigeland. The star piece is a 20-metre-high obelisk the world's biggest granite sculpture, with 121 clambering bodies representing the human life cycle.
**Bygdoy peninsula, with five good museums [including an open-air Folk Museum and Viking Ships Museum,[see Museums & Galleries section]and a couple of fine swimming beaches. It's a 10-minute ferry ride across the harbour.
*Holmenkollen, green wooded hills, with a ski jump and ski museums, it has the best city view and is also a peaceful area for walks.
Short Trips:
**Drobak, on the eastern side of the Oslo Fjord, is a pleasant seaside resort, with a good swimming beach, 40 km from the city.
**Henie-Onstad Art Centre, in Hovikodden, is a private collection of 20thC art, including Picasso and Matisse. 12km south.
**Lake Mjosa, Norway's largest lake, is for outdoor lovers. 120km north of Oslo to the main town of Hamar, a 1.5 hour travel time. The most worthwhile bit is Lillehammer, '94 Winter Olympic venue, one of the best ski centres in Europe, but also for other outdoor activities. It has also one of Europe's largest open-air museums, Maihuagen [the Sandvig Collection of traditional wooden houses].
Festivals:
Feb, Ski Festival, a cross-country ski race through the city.
May, Constitution Day, celebrates independence from Denmark, with folk music, parades, entertainment, and people in traditional costumes.
June, Midsummer's Eve, celebrations for the longest day.
mid-Aug, Chamber Music Festival.
early Oct, Contemporary Music Festival.
Museums and Galleries:
***Munch Museum, a star attraction for art lovers, dedicated to Norway's most famous artist, including his best-known painting 'The Scream' - though often absent due to world demand.
**National Gallery, Norway's finest collection of art, from Greek/Roman sculpture to Italian Renaissance and French Impressionists, as well as Norwegian/ Nordic art.
**Folk Museum, a vast open-air museum of reconstructed traditional architecture including the stave church.
** Kon-Tiki Museum, featuring the historic balsawood raft which travelled across the Pacific in 1947.
**Viking Ships Museum, displays restored Viking boats and burials.
If your stay is more than 2 days, it may worth getting an Oslo Card [free public transport and entrance to most museums in the city].

Arts/Culture/Night life:
The city culture scene is fairly active not only in summer time but throughout the year, and includes theatre, live music, dance, clubs and more.
Get 'What's on in Oslo' for listings
Accommodation:
You need to make an effort to find reasonably priced hotels, or any bargain/special deal/ weekend discount, etc..
Cuisine:
Travellers need a lot of money to enjoy Norwegian cuisine fully, but try to experience some of the superb seafood restaurants. The most popular dinning area is along the city's main street, Karl Johans Gate. The waterfront, Aker Brygge is also lively with modern cafes, bars, and restaurants. It's difficult not to feel a poor relation in this kind of environment!
Shopping:
Expensive of course, but try shops along Karl Johans Gate, especially the pedestrianized section, with its lively atmosphere, souvenir stalls and fun buskers.
Alternatively, go to the shopping and entertainment mall, Aker Brygge.
April sales are the best time to do shopping in Oslo, especially for traditional knitwear or winter sports

Netherlands - Holland Travel Guide

2009-09-29T14:41:00.001-07:00

Why Travel to Netherlands?
This little kingdom deserves a lot more attention than just for its tulips, windmills and Amsterdam [the capital] hedonism.
Dutch cities are brimming with grand architecture - ancient and modern, along with top class museums, galleries, a buzzing nightlife and other attractions that make up a great urban culture trip.
Then there are pleasant canal cruises, interesting city walks and ultra-relaxation in the famous 'coffeeshops', i.e. cannabis cafés.
The countryside is flat and natural with extensive flower fields [in season] framed by windmills and grassy dykes - perfect for comfortable cycling and walks.
Dutch people are relaxed, liberal and open-minded who generally speak excellent English; internet and telecommunications services are advanced.
The country is compact and easy to get around, with a smooth and efficient transport network, both domestic and international.

Leiden, Netherlands

Downsides:
- The weather can be unpredictable and miserable.
- Street/place names are long and not easy to read or say.
- Netherlands is not a budget option, especially accommodation.

Netherlands climate guide:
Best: May-Sept. Holland doesn't experience extremes of heat or cold, though the weather is notoriously erratic and spring/autumn are often wet.
Worst: Nov-March. Short daylight hours, cold and grey, but Christmas markets in December are light and lively.

Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not including flights: 2 days. Amsterdam or other cities for a wild/arts weekend.
Recommended: 10 days to get a fair look at this tiny Dutch country.

Singelgracht canal, Amsterdam

Netherlands Main Attractions:
***Amsterdam is a lively, interesting and cosmopolitan capital, with terrific architecture and endless canal views, world-class museums and no shortage of or action.
**The Randstad [rim towns] - a group of easy-access towns near Amsterdam, this is a highly developed region containing two-thirds of the entire Dutch population; places can be visited on day trips from the 'Dam but some places are worth a more thorough look:
**Rotterdam - young and dynamic, this metropolis is the world's 2nd biggest port [after Shanghai] and buzzes with energy and wacky architecture.
***Haarlem - a typical Dutch town, Haarlem is gateway to the flower fields 20 km west of Amsterdam, so it's best in spring time. It has well-preserved medieval town centre including a 14th century city hall and a main square which hosts a lively market.

***Leiden. This charming, vibrant university town is Rembrandt's birthplace; particularly pleasant is the old and watery quarter of Rapenburg.
**The Keukenhof Gardens and the bulb fields nearby. This 80-acre park is the world's largest garden with about six million flowers at its peak time from late March till the end of May.
***Gouda. Visit the St Janskerk church to see the amazing stained glass windows then buy a wheel of real, vintage, taste-explosion Dutch cheese in this pleasant town.

An historic bridge over the River Spaarne, Haarlem.

Haarlem is the capital of North Holland province, only 20kms from Amsterdam and adjacent to large, and attractive coastal sand dunes around Bloemendaal. Haarlem dates from the 10th century; the origin of its name is a pretty fair description of it's location - 'a sandy, high place covered with trees'.
Haarlem has been the focus of Netherlands' tulip bulb growing industry for many years which is why it's Dutch nickname is 'Flower City'.
Haarlem has a well-preserved medieval town centre including a 14th century city hall and a main square which hosts a lively market. Don't miss St Bavokerk's Cathedral - known for its 5,000 pipe organ, said to have been played by Mozart.

Near Leiden are the spectacular flower gardens of Keukenhof [best March-May], while the town offers fine buildings including a couple of windmills, a big market on Wednesdays and Saturdays and a lot of watery intersections. There is a fine collection of Egyptian artifacts in Rijksmuseum van Oudheden [National Museum of Antiquities].
Due to the complement of university students Leiden has plenty of energy and activities.

The Hague government buildings

**The Hague [Den Haag], an elegant political centre and the Dutch Royal residence, The Hague has its own classy ambience which is quite unique from other cities of the Netherlands.
Binnenhof - a 13th century castle morphed into the Dutch Parliament - is one of the finer building clusters while notable arts can be seen at the Mauritshuis.
Den Haag has an excellent culture scene, fantastic dining options and a popular sandy beach just 4km away at the resort of Scheveningen.
***Delft - is another delightful little medieval town with canal-lined streets, known for its 'Delftware' blue and white ceramics; best strolled on foot, the Historic Walk around the old town is a winner. Summer crowds can be a nightmare but otherwise Delft is an immaculately relaxing little burg.
**Utrecht offers the 14thC Dom Tower, several interesting museums and lively canalside eating and drinking.
***Maastricht, an old Roman town sandwiched between Germany and Belgium, this is is one of Holland's delights with a charming old quarter and lively cosmopolitan feel.
**Dordrecht is a small and little-touristed but well preserved medieval town with a great museum [van Gijn] and oodles of charm.
**Groningen, a very lively, cultured small town up north invigorated by university students.

The Binnenhof buildings across Hofvijver lake, part of Dutch Parliament and the central core of The Hague.

The Netherlands' third largest city after Amsterdam and Rotterdam, The Hague is capital of South Holland province, home to the Dutch parliament, many international legal organisations including the International Court of Justice, as well as Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands, though strangely Den Haag is not the country's capital, which is Amsterdam.

The Knight's Hall [aka Ridderzaal] part of the Binnenhof Parliament buildings, The Hague.

Founded in 1248 Den Haag is spacious, has an excellent culture scene, fantastic dining options, contains many elegant buildings both old and new, fine museums and encompasses two North Sea beach resorts, Scheveningen and Kijkduin. The former is more popular with tourists, the latter with locals.
Binnenhof - a 13th century castle morphed into the Dutch Parliament - is one of the finer buildings, while notable arts can be seen at the Mauritshuis [Dutch paintings], Gemeente museum [a splendid collection of musical instruments], the Panorama Mesdag [home of an amazing 360-degree painting of Scheveningen sea front] and the Bug favourite Escher Museum.

The Netherlands' most popular beach at Scheveningen, on the outskirts of The Hague.

Yes, The Hague does modern too, and plenty of it. This extraordinary edifice is an office block.

Delft's 17th century town hall. The city is famed for its blue and white pottery known as Delftware that is popular with tourists but, ironically, no longer desired by local people.

Delft used to be one of Netherlands' more important cities and dates from the 13th century and is not far from Amsterdam. Best strolled on foot, the Historic Walk around the old town is a winner. Summer crowds can be a nightmare but otherwise Delft is an immaculately relaxing little Dutch burg with many ancient buildings still standing. There is a lake and inland beach nearby that is suitable for windsurfing and swimming

The Eastern Gate [Oostport] of Delft, built in 1867.

The 13th century Saint Servatius [Sint Servaasbrug] bridge in the oldest city in the Netherlands.

Maastricht is about two hours from Amsterdam and offers plenty of Roman and Gothic structures though it can hardly be described as a tourist must-see as it appears to be more allied to Germany and Belgium than to the Netherlands and aims to be an EU political conference centre rather than a Dutch tourist trip.
No other Dutch town has as many bars per sq metre as Maastricht. Try popular markets if you don't mind crowds on Wednesdays and Fridays and its annual carnival is also worth a visit.

A walking trail through Hoge Veluwe National Park

**Hoge Veluwe National Park, a nature reserve of forests, marshlands and sand dunes is good for walks or free-to-use white bicycles but also well worth a visit for the terrific Kroller-Muller Museum which hosts a remarkable collection of 278 paintings by Van Gogh and Europe's largest sculpture garden.
**Frisian Islands, this group of bleakly attractive holiday islands just off the north-west coast [access is possible on foot if mud is not a problem a la wadlopen] is enjoyed by hardy walkers or bikers; Texel is the most popular.

Intercity Travel:
Train and bus services are efficient and good value. Main cities from Amsterdam by train: Schiphol Airport 20 mins; Haarlem 15 mins; The Hague 50 mins; Leiden 45 mins; Rotterdam 1 hour; Hoge Veluwe National Park 70 mins; Maastricht 2.5 hours.

Local Transport:
Urban buses and trams are easy and efficient with one type of ticketing 'strippenkaart' throughout the country. The train network is excellent with reasonable fares and efficient services; various passes are available. there's also a good taxi system - 'traintaxi' - with a fixed price for one ride anywhere to a certain limit from a rail station is available in all cities and towns except Amsterdam, Rotterdam and the Hague.
Long-distance buses connect from Amsterdam to most European cities, as do the trains.

Skating on canals in wintertime

Netherlands Activities:
Hiking: Excellent for both long and short walks as the 300 km-long coast offers several reasonably scenic trails [known as LAWs] through sand dunes and nature reserves.
You can even walking across the mud flats at low tide in the Wadden Sea - between north coast and the Wadden islands. 'Wadlopen' [mud walking] is very popular and Dutch take this dirty business seriously.
Alternatively try following the tulip trail between Haarlem and Sassenheim or a windmill trail along Kinderdijk, or the Zaanse Schans area.
Dutch cities are compact and usually have suggested walking routes so the best way to explore is on foot.
Get information and maps from the VVV [Tourist Office].
Canal cruises: There are loads of pretty canals and rivers in most urban centres so it's easy to find cruises and boat hire.
Canoeing: is fantastic way to get close to Netherlands nature, for instance marshlands of the Hollandse Biesbosch National Park, south of Rotterdam. Guided tours are available as well as just canoe rentals.

Dutch biking, transport du jour, partly because the country is very flat

Biking: Holland is one of the most cycle friendly countries on the planet as the land is almost flat, about 85 % of Dutch people travel regularly by bikes and most of the time bikes have priority over other vehicles.
There are said to be more bikes than inhabitants [16 million] in the Netherlands. It has about 17,000 km [including 20 long distance routes totalling 6,000km] of well-marked cycling paths/lanes and every local VVV will provide appropriate information.
Commercial cycling packages/tours are frequently on offer, too. Detailed cycle maps are available at book stores. Netherlands Railways are cycle friendly as bikes can be carried on trains or rented/ parked/ repaired or even bought at more than 100 stations throughout the country. Check out bike-rental vouchers at the station.
Try the windmill trail, the flower bulb trail [see hiking section], North Sea and Wadden Sea, 2 long coastal routes or riding white bikes for free in Hoge Veluwe National Park.
Do not forget to lock up your bike, these are the most stolen items in the country!
p.s. It is an offence to be drunk and in charge of a bicycle; this is taken seriously by the police.
Skating: Cycle paths are also good for inline skating or join Amsterdam's skating evening touring the city on Fridays; meet at the Vondelpark.
Watersports/Beaches: the province of Zeeland in the south has 175 miles of mostly sandy beaches and is popular holiday destination. Good surf can be found easily, too.
Coffeeshops: weed, ready-rolled spliffs, space cake and so on as well as coffee are available from many 'coffee shops' around Holland, not just Amsterdam. Some coffeeshops are cute, some are quaint, some are weird and some are just sad and squalid.
It's legal to buy and use small quantities of wacky baccy or its resin derivative.

A different perspective after a visit to an Amsterdam 'coffeeshop'

Main Festivals:
late Feb: Holland Flowers Festival, a must-see garden show that takes place at the Greenery complex, covering 4,500 sq.m in Wervershoof; this event is known for its creative landscape designs on display.
March: TEFAF Maastricht, the European Fine Art Fair, one of the world's leading art and antiques fairs that attracts dealers and collectors globally.
April 30: Queen's Day [Koninginnedag], a national celebration for the Queen Mother's birthday with a massive, mad street party in Amsterdam. It is also known as Orange day and many people wander about dressed in orange, the royal colour representing the House of Orange.
late May/June: Holland Festival, Netherlands’ largest performing arts festival held mainly in Amsterdam and The Hague since 1947.
The 2nd weekend of July: North Sea Jazz Festival, one of the best and arguably the biggest jazz event in the world, with world-class artists and 23,000 visitors a day. Previously held in the Hague, it has been held in Rotterdam since 2006. 3 days.
The first weekend of August: Amsterdam Pride is one of Europe's largest gay/lesbian festivals. The world famous Canal Parade, with a hundred decorated boats and music, is a must-see.

Rotterdam

Visa information:
Only a valid passport is required to enter the country and stay up to 3 months for citizens of Australia, Canada, Israel, Japan, South Korea, New Zealand, Singapore, USA, and most of Europe.
EU citizens can enter Holland with only a national ID card.

Country Code: 31

Electricity:
Electric sockets are 230v and take 2 round pin plugs.

Safety advice:
The Netherlands is generally safe, but their extremely liberal attitude has attracted some undesirables so stay away from dodgy non-tourist areas in cities such as Amsterdam and take the usual precautions.
Bag snatching [probably by east Europeans] on trains, especially those from Amsterdam to/from Schipol Airport, is quite common.
Do not hesitate to seek help if you are in trouble as Dutch people and police are very helpful.
Language:
Dutch and Frisian [spoken in a northern province] but most locals speak fair English.

Cuisine:
Although the Dutch offer some of Europe's best food products such as dairy - particularly cheese - and fish - especially herring [best May-June], local dishes are rather bland and limited. However interesting, high-quality international food is no trouble to find in Netherlands, especially Amsterdam, Rotterdam and the Hague.
Indonesian influenced dishes are the best in Europe. If you are unfamiliar with it, try 'Rijsttafel' [literally 'rice table'], an assorted platter which has become the nation's favourite.

Accommodation:
Hotels tend to be expensive and booked up, especially in Amsterdam and Haarlem, so reserve your room ahead during busy times, e.g. the summer and other holiday periods.

Travel to Monaco

2009-09-29T14:07:00.001-07:00

A view of Monaco from Beausoleil hillside, off the Moyen Corniche.

Do not try a 'quick drive' through Monaco. The streets are slim, tortuous, car-packed and poorly signposted. The sensible option is to get to a central car park with all speed and wander from there. We favour the parking on the way down the hill to the port from the casino, though there are several in the Port de Monaco. From there a stroll up to and around Monte Carlo's casino is delightful, the shops in the vicinity are outrageous [see image below] and eating around the margins of the port is not a bank-breaking experience.

A study in Monaco building contrasts. Whichever you prefer, a 4 bed apartment with a harbour view costs in the region of €60m in 2009. A 45 sqm rattrap with a view of the neighbour's washing would set you back €1.5m.

High cost shops adjacent to Monte Carlo Casino. Silly prices but superb window-shopping.

The 1870 church of Ste-Dévote, beside the port and once robbed of religious relics by pirates.

Monaco Ville, the original pirate stronghold and now home to the ruler's Palais Princier, admin buildings and a couple of excellent museums. The Musée Océanographique is particularly impressive

Yup, they even managed to squeeze in a beach.

Monaco's Monte Carlo Casino and Place du Casino.

Known for its monarchy [the longest ruling autocracy], the Monte Carlo casino and zero income-tax, Monaco has narrow streets, CCTV cameras in excess, 1 policeman for every 62 residents, a hugely expensive marina and shops, though it is possible to eat and drink for a reasonable price in the port area, particularly around la Condamine, like below.

The cheap and cheerful Stars 'n' Bars cafe/bar/restaurant on Quai Antoine.

One of several blocks of hotel rooms with public gardens and walkways on the roof.

Not like any hotel roof we've ever seen before!

But the main attraction in Monaco is, of course, the Monte Carlo Casino, the supercars parked outside and the big spenders inside.

Monaco is one of those places where no one looks at a Ferrari, it's just too blah.
And don't even think about staying here during the Grand Prix time in May.

Italy Travel Guide

2009-09-21T20:00:00.001-07:00

The less-than-vertical Pisa Tower.

This is a monster of must-sees, the richest collection of ancient buildings, museums, art and culture in Europe with an amazing history to match.
Rome is a stunning, lived-in art gallery, with more tourist sights than any other city in the world, while Venice is uniquely water-based and strangely enticing, Florence packed with art in all forms and even small towns such as fortified Lucca offer magical experiences.
The country is home to spectacular and varied landscapes from northern lakes through rolling hills of Tuscany, dramatic cliffs of Amalfi and on to the emerald coasts of Sardinia, fair beaches [the best are unquestionably on Italian islands], good food and drink at reasonable prices, a relaxed lifestyle and effervescent local culture.

Rome's backstreets

Downsides:
- Heavy traffic and borderline insane drivers in some places, though not Venice!
- Pickpockets and bag snatchers are active in big cities, particularly Rome, Naples and Palermo.
- Too many tourists in the summer [Florence, aaaargh!] and too much heat.
- The Italian mainland has a distinct lack of big, beautiful, sandy beaches - in spite of the lengthy coastline.
- There is an oversupply of pizza and pasta joints and a distinct lack of non-Italian resaurants for tourists who need variety.

Rip-offs: Codacons, the Italian consumer watchdog reports mass tourist scams ranging from Rome taxi drivers charging €130 from the airport when the fixed fee is €40; fake parking attendants in Florence, double-charging tourists for water bus tickets in Venice, and generally overcharging foreigners just about anywhere, from bars and restaurants to hairdressers.
However, bars, restaurants and taxis are legally obliged to display tariffs [somewhere!] so ALWAYS check before you order!

Italy climate guide:
Best: March-May, September-November for sightseeing, May-September for beach resorts, Jan-March for skiing.
Worst: Dec-Feb [can be bitterly cold in the north, unless for winter sports], and June-Aug [very hot, busy roads and packed sights]

St Peters, the Vatican

Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not incl. flights: Rome - a two day romantic weekend?
Recommended: At least 2 weeks to travel around Rome and a couple of cities such as Florence, Venice, Siena, or some country/mountain/beach activities.

Basilica of San Michele in Foro, plus Prosecco, Lucca

Activities guide:
Skiing: a great improvement in facilities in recent years has made Italy one of Europe's finest destinations for both downhill and cross-country skiing.
Hiking/Climbing: the official hiking season is from June 20th to September 20th and most of the ski resorts become excellent bases for walking and mountain biking in summer months.
Marked trails and paths are well provided.
Resorts have detailed maps, itineraries and various treks with our without guides can be arranged easily. The most obvious area is the Alps in the north, but less challenging trails can be found in Tuscany and Umbria.
The islands like Capri, Sicily or Sardinia have plenty of hiking routes too.
Unlike Britain hikers in Italy have unlimited access to the land.

Moneglia beach, Liguria

Beaches: the mainland's beaches tend to be small, pebbly and crowded. Southwest of Rome and Italy islands offer the best chunks of usable sand.
Diving and snorkelling: popular in Sicily and off most of the little islands, among the best is Ustica in the Tyrrhenian Sea, with the first Italian underwater natural reserve [75 minutes from Palermo in Sicily by hydrofoil].
Some of the country's best dive sites can be found in Sardinia, with diving schools, courses and equipment hire are readily available.
Other possible locations include the Trémiti Islands in the Adriatic sea, with crystal clear water and along the coasts of Tuscany and Liguria.
Sailing: suggested sailing routes with guides and maps around the south are available at tourist offices.
Although it is not ideal for beginners, the best is probably Archipelago della Maddalena, located between Sardinia and Corsica [France], zig-zagging around 60 islets.
One of Europe's most popular sailing locations, especially for small boats and windsurfers is the lake country in the north – Lake Garda, Lake Como, Iseo, Lugano and Maggiore.
Fishing: Sardinia and Sicily have excellent sea waters, while rivers in Umbria and Tuscany offer the most scenic fishing. Fishing boats can be easily hired.
River canoeing/rafting: The Alps in the north is the place to go for dramatic scenery and rides.
Cycling: this is one of the most popular sports but beware lunatic drivers when travelling on roads.
Camping: There's plenty of choice of places and facilities from basic campsites to luxury holiday parks throughout the country.
Golfing: There are excellent golf courses all over, from Lombardy, Trentino in the north to Tuscany and Lazio. Also on Calabria and Sardinia.
Spectator sports: It's a special thrill to watch games with excitable Italians. The three most popular sports are football, cycle racing [the Giro d’Italia], and motor-racing [at Monza near Milan].
Other: Italian language, cooking and art courses are widely available.

Venice Carnival

Festivals:
Being a Catholic nation, Italy has religious events throughout out the year but particularly at Christmas and Easter.
Furthermore there are probably more mad celebrations, historic events and art festivals in Italy than in any other European country - with the possible exception of Spain - especially in the summertime.
February: Carnevale [Carnival], although the one in Venice is the most extraordinary for its costumes, atmosphere, and huge crowds, Verona is the best place to go for authenticity. Viareggio [Tuscany] and Arcireale [Sicily] are also good.
Easter: Lo Scoppio del Carro, [Explosion of the Cart], fireworks display on Easter Sunday in Florence at the Duomo of Santa Maria del Fiore.
early May: Cocullo L'Aquila, the Festival of Snakes to celebrate Saint San Domenico.
May: Corsa dei Ceri, [Gubbio], a bizarre medieval event held annually, with a group of men carrying three ceri [20 ft wooden pillars] and racing up to the Basilica.
mid June-August: Verona Opera Season takes place in the Arena, a huge Roman theatre and is perhaps the best-known open air opera in the world. Fantastic performances in a fantastic environment. Tickets start at €10[£6].
early July and mid Aug: Palio in Siena, a mad, medieval bare-back horse race in the 12th century square. Crazed, colourful and crowded.
late Aug: Venice Film Festival, the world's oldest international film festival.
September: La Regatta di Venezia [Venice regatta], historic gondola race along the Grand Canal, with people in medieval costumes.
Oct: Olive Oil Festival, [Nationwide].

Lucca's medieval Piazza Anfiteatro.

Shopping:
Pricewise this country is no longer brilliantly cheap due to the €uro's strength, but Italian style and taste is still irresistible.
For big labels and sophistication, Milan and Florence are the places to go. If that is not your thing, try Italian eccentricity at smaller boutiques, or fine workmanship in city backstreets.
Travel around local open-air markets for good value clothes and regional foods, especially in Tuscany, as a fun way to absorb local culture.

Visas:
EU citizens do not need visas, nor do many other country residents - including USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Switzerland, Israel, and Japan for visits up to 90 days.

Electricity:
Electric sockets are 230v and take 2 round pin plugs.

Safety Advice:
Violent crime is rare, but pickpockets and bag snatchers may take advantage of carelessness, especially in cities.

Language:
Locals in small towns do not speak much English. Although they will try to understand whatever you say, a few Italian survival words are very useful.

Cuisine:
Since food is one of Italy's long-running obsessions along with 'bella figura' [looking good, for example, certain Heads of State are totally useless at their jobs but at least have a bella figura] or 'passeggiata' [the stroll], Italian cuisine is excellent but limited in range unless you have a fat wallet.

Ireland Travel Guide

2009-09-21T19:40:00.001-07:00

County Kerry, Ireland

Travel to Ireland
Ireland is a lush place of chunky castles, battered coastlines and sweeping, unspoilt country landscapes, perfect for outdoor people.
Attractions range from castles, cathedrals, Trinity College Dublin and prehistoric sites to the Guinness brewery, or any Irish pub for that matter...As for culture, well there's plenty of that in Dublin or at one of the many peculiar festivals that vibrate around the republic.
The people are friendly and there are not too many of them [a good number of them are either in London or New York], so Ireland is a place where you really can get away from it all.

The famous Moher cliffs walk, County Clare

Downside:
- The roads are often in poor condition, so if you go self-drive, go slowly or go 4x4. Or both.
- Ireland is not cheap and you can be overcharged in touristy places where some restaurants and hotels fleece unwary travellers.
- The weather is often wet, but wait a moment and it'll change.

The Ring of Kerry standing stones.

Ireland climate guide:
Best: May - Sept Worst: Jan, Feb [cold, dull, rain, wind]

Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not incl. flights: a long weekend, in and around Dublin.
Max: up to 3 weeks if you want a quiet, countrified get-away-from-it-all kind of holiday.

Dublin Cathedral, Ireland

Ireland main attractions:
Dublin, a lively, beautiful Georgian city.
Most tourists head straight for County Kerry. This is a spectacular area of mountains and lakes. Killarney is the most scenic spot in Kerry.

Ross Castle, Killarney, County Kerry

Moving North, you should visit the Burren in County Clare, which is an extraordinary limestone range with a unique floral habitat.
Then there's the Aran Islands, across the mouth of Galway Bay, where you can see rural Ireland as it was centuries ago; the traditional way of life of the Aran islanders has not been subject to modernisation and Irish is still spoken there. You can reach the islands by ferry from Galway.

Kylemore Abbey, County Galway

Connemara in County Galway has a wonderful landscape of moorland and mountains and still supports pockets of Irish speakers.
Clonmacnois, County Offaly, has a fascinating early monastic site.
Literary buffs will want to continue north into County Sligo and visit Yeats country including the famous Ben Bulben and the grave of the great poet.
Glendalough lies in a pretty valley in County Wicklow and is the well-preserved site of an early Christian settlement and includes a round tower and St Kevin's Church and many ancient crosses.

Ireland's County Wicklow National Park and the Round Tower.

Ireland Activities Guide:
Walking: Ireland is brilliant walking country and there are 2,000 miles of unspoiled, marked trails such as the Kerry Way and the 127 km [80 miles] Wicklow Way.
The Wicklow hike is easy to get to and offers landscapes from mountains, lakes, glacial valleys and mountain streams to forests and farmland. The W Way starts in Dublin's south suburb of Rathfarnham and heads southwest across the Dublin, through the hill country of County Wicklow and ends in the tiny village of Clonegal.
Fishing: You can fish almost anywhere along Ireland's vast coastline and in the many rivers and lakes e.g. Lough Derg, Erne and Gill. Fishing permits cost IR£5 but you need a national licence for salmon and sea trout.
Mountain biking: Hire bikes are available. You can bike in the great walking areas as well almost flat areas like the Ards Peninsula, or hills, rough tracks...whatever you fancy.
Mountain-climbing: Mt Gabriel on the Mizen head Peninsula, Hungry Hill on the Beara Peninsula, and Croagh Patrick near Westport.

Climbing Ireland's highest mountain, Carrauntoohil, County Kerry.

Horse Riding: all kinds of horsey holidays are on offer, and all utilising quiet, pretty trails and beaches, many in the south-west. Or...for a truly ethnic experience what about a horse-drawn caravan holiday!
Sailing/kayaking: very popular round the west coast, especially between Cork Harbour and the Dingle Peninsula, the coast north and south of Dublin and on the larger lakes.
Windsurfing: Steady year-round wind and good waves make this sport popular too.
Surfing: try the waves in Easkey in County Sligo, the Castlegregory Peninsula and Barley Cove on the Mizen Head Peninsula.
Self-Drive Inland Boating: Ireland has over 400 miles of navigable rivers, lakes and canals that you can explore by yourself with minimal instruction on a narrow boat, with plenty of moorings and marinas en route.
Or take go on a cruise boat a let someone else do the driving.
Scuba: Yes, strange but true! From March to October hardy divers explore the rocky coasts and colourful fish courtesy of the Gulf Stream.

Six Arches Bridge, County Kerry.

Ireland Festivals Guide:
* really special
* June, Music in Great Irish Houses Festival, mostly Dublin, plus counties Wicklow and Kildare. Excellent.
June, Eigse Carlow Arts Festival, all kinds of music and street entertainment.
June, Galway Pride, parades, fancy dress and general hard partying.
* July, Galway Arts Festival, all kinds of entertainment at this great show.
Aug, Waterford Spraoi Street Festival
Aug, Muff Festival, wild and wacky 3 day street event.
* Aug, Puck Fair, a bizarre 3 day event.
Aug, Kilkenny Arts Festival, set in superb surroundings.
* Aug, Rose of Tralee Int. Festival, a massive party celebrating romance!
Aug, Fleadh Cheoil, huge all-Ireland music competition, music everywhere, Clonmel, County Tipperary.
Sept, Galway Int. Oyster Festival, with fun events of all sorts.
End of Oct, Cork Jazz Festival, 4 days
*Mid Oct-early Nov, Wexford Opera Festival, small but perfectly formed.

And our last stop in Ireland, it's a pub of course, and there'll be Guinness awaiting...

Iceland Travel Guide

2009-09-21T18:14:00.001-07:00

This is one of the most geologically interesting countries in the world, with a barren and volcanic element which gives it a great charm, albeit somewhat weird.
Fantastic waterfalls, geysers, volcanic bubblings and blowouts, snowy mountains, grassy plains, geothermal pools for bathing and lava, lava everywhere. And trees? Nay, lad.
Iceland's 'Golden Triangle' consists of Gullfoss waterfall, Strokkur geyser and Snaefell volcano.
The midnight sun - almost totally light summer nights - is an experience all of it's own, while
history buffs will love the Viking Saga stories.
Pollution and crime are close to zero, traffic jams and crowds do not exist, life stress is low and just about everyone speaks English.

Downside:
- Prices are still quite high [after the crunch] and may freeze your bank account.
- Outside Reykjavik, cultural tourism is virtually zero.
- The weather is often dire, with little blue sky visible even in the summer.
- Most of country is devoid of vegetation above boot level, though that is partly the attraction.

Iceland Travel Guide, climate:
Best: July and August
Worst: January - March
OK: June, and up to 15 September - everything shuts after that, though December is lively in Reykjavik].

Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not incl. flights: Reykjavik only or including a quick whizz around the 'Golden Triangle' - 4 days [include a weekend for a taste of the nightlife]
Recommended: 2-3 weeks.

Where to travel in Iceland:
***Reykjavik - quirky and interesting, with a colourful Viking history, modern Scandinavian architecture, clean air and little crime. orld class nightlife and a great attitude towards culture.
***South - the country's most popular region for tourism containing two of its most famous attractions - Gulfoss fall and Strokkur geyser. Situated near to Reykjavik.
**West - some good features all within reasonable distance of Reykjavik, with Snaefell's extinct volcano forming the most northerly part of the touristy Golden Triangle.
**North East - one of the better regions for things to see; the distance from Reykjavik keeps the rampaging hordes away.
*South East - this holds the southern flanks of Iceland's largest ice cap Vatnajokull. It is also home to the country's most excitable volcano, Lakr.

A Viking ship near Reykjavik

South West - the Reykjanes 'Steamy' Peninsula is home to the most northerly city in Europe, Reykjavik but is otherwise rather barren.
West Fjords - one of the most rugged regions of Iceland with many fjords and steep mountains. Excellent for bird life due to extensive cliffs.
North - one of the least interesting parts of the country with few attractions, though popular with bird watchers.
East - quiet with few tourists, but still very accessible and with relatively good weather. Boat travellers from Europe often start here.
Central Highlands - an uninhabited wilderness area with mountains and glaciers as well as lava fields and geothermal sites.

The Arbaer Festival

Main Iceland Festivals:
Third Thursday in April: First Day of Summer 'Sumardagurinn Fyrsti', mild partying and a carnival in Reykjavik.
First week in June: Sailor's Day 'Sjomannadagurinn', watery competitions and partying in coastal villages.
June 17: Independence Day, mainly in Reykjavik, costumes, parades, street performers etc.
Beginning of August: Verslunarmannahelgi, camp based partying in Iceland's car accessible scenic spots; extreme drinking and mayhem.

Iceland Activities:
Walking and Hiking: pretty much everywhere is walkable with lots of interesting geological features. See Walking Tours.
Nightlife: unbridled boozing and dancing in the clubs of Reykjavik, with live music also on tap.
Horse Trekking: local ponies are cute and calm, so travel into the wilderness regions on one.
Whale Watching: whales and dolphins can be seen, though mainly just the Minkes.
Rafting: widely available though naturally the water is extremely cold.

The Blue Lagoon near Keflavik airport, Reykjavik

Geothermal Bathing: natural and man made pools [spas] - but geothermally supplied water - indoors and out. These are curative and social for most Icelanders.
Different pools have different curative powers - including arthritis, asthma and eczema.
Reykjavik's outdoor Blue Lagoon is #1, rich in skin-healing properties such as salts, algae and silica.
Snow scooters: Spectacular scooter trails across the country during winter.
Bird watching: varieties of ducks, puffins and other sea birds visible in the north, NE and SW.
Fishing: pricey salmon and trout fishing.
Possible but not great:
Mountain Biking: Not good as the weather will deter most due to erratic winds and rain, with sand storms when dry. And if that's not enough rocks are thrown up by passing traffic.
Climbing: lots of rock but quite flakey. Great glacier crossings and ice climbing.
Skiing: Dec- April but if you are going to ski why pay ridiculous prices for these second rate pistes?

A typical Icelandic camp site

Money Guide:
Kronur is the currency and you'll need a lot of it, this country is seriously expensive. Credit cards are commonly used, Traveller's Cheques OK and ATMs plentiful in urban areas.
Tipping is not necessary.

Visas:
Nationals of West Europe USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Singapore and some other countries do not need a visa for up to 3 months.

Iceland Transport:
- Domestic plane travel is commonplace and relatively inexpensive with Air Iceland.
- Self-drive 4x4 hire is the most convenient way to travel, but very expensive and cars should be reserved way in advance online. Hiring on-the-spot is not recommended as it will be more expensive and with less choice, if any! Full damage insurance is advisable as roads are often tricky gravel tracks. Fuel is also very pricey.
- Buses are efficient but not frequent. FlyBus runs regular [though not frequent] bus excursions to most parts of the country, especially around the Ring Road.

External reviews on travel in Iceland.

Electricity:
Electric sockets are 220v and take 2 round pin plugs.

Safety:
Iceland is just about the safest place on the planet.

Language:
Don't even think about learning more than the basic courtesies. Most people speak some English.

Cuisine Guide:
Generally expensive and often repulsive to boot - fancy 6 month rotted shark meat, pickled ram's testicles or roast puffin?
To be fair, there are plenty of fish dishes available and the smoked lamb is excellent.
Reykjavik also has ethnic restaurants, fast food joints and buffets/salad bars that are less extortionately priced.

Iceland Links

Icelandic Tourist Board - the official tourism site for Iceland.

Icelandic Tourist Board [North America] - the official tourism site for Americans looking to visit Iceland.

Reykjavik - city information

Blue Lagoon - spa information

Northern Iceland - information on North West Iceland.

East Iceland - tourism site for East Iceland.

Scandinavia Tourism Board - official tourism site for all Scandinavian countries.

Reykjanes - promotional site for the Reykjanes Peninsula.

Iceland Air - a national airline with many regional flights.

Icelandic Meteorological Office - the lowdown on local weather conditions, plus earthquake information.

Travel to Hungary

2009-09-21T17:45:00.000-07:00

A tourist interested in east European culture could do worse than start in Hungary, which joined the EU in 2004.
The country is easy to get around and offers the relaxed and interesting capital city of Budapest, medieval towns with ornate buildings, ancient villages with intricate folk art, impressive mountains, plains and lakes, healing thermal spas, birds galore and excellent wine and beer at excellent prices.

Downside:
- Prices are hardly cheap, particularly compared to not-dissimilar Czech Republic.
- Locals are quickly learning how to fleece unwary tourists, especially waiters and taxi drivers.
- The cuisine leans towards heavy and waiters towards greed and sloth.
- There's plenty of post-communist poverty and environmental damage outside big towns and resorts.

Hungary climate guide:
Best: May-July, Sept-Oct.
Worst: August [hot dead towns, very crowded resorts], Nov-Feb [wet, then extreme cold]

Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not incl. flights: Budapest for a wild weekend.
Recommended: 9 days to take in Budapest and some of the surrounding towns and countryside.

Fisherman's Bastion, Budapest

Hungary's main attractions:
Budapest, a diverse, interesting city with plenty of action.

The Danube Bend - **Szentendre, **Visegrad and Esztergom. Just 20km [12m] north of the capital this pretty, hilly area is a popular - if crowded - tourist target.
Szentendre is an attractive place to see art in all forms, as well as venerable structures on winding streets. Visegrad at 40kms [25mls] also offers a few impressive historic sights, but much smaller and less busy than its big sister. Esztergom is less worthy of your time.

Szentendre, Hungary

*** Lake Balaton. This massive [77km long] lake about 100km [62m] from Budapest is known as 'Hungary's playground' and supplies a vast range of leisure activities - swimming, sailing, biking, walking, sunbathing, and drinking yourself into a stupor, among others.
Balaton's south [east] shore caters to lovers of bop-a-lot and beach lifestyles while the north tends towards cultural experiences, historical sights, better scenery and lots of tranquil walks. Tihany village is the culture star of Balaton while Siofok is a German drop zone.

Lake Balaton, Hungary

***Eger, 125km [80m] from the capital, is a charming, pedestrian friendly, baroque town full of interesting sights and buildings, including a 13thC castle.
The adjacent Valley of Beautiful Women offers wonderful wine cellars, music and spectacular drinking [especially the local Bull's Blood wine].
Travel there by train [2.5 hours], bus or car.
**Holloko. En route to Eger a 40km [25ml] detour brings tourists to this World Heritage site, a charming village that has preserved much of its architecture and rural ways since the 17th century.
***Sopron. In far west Hungary, only an hour from Austria's Vienna, Sopron offers a compact medieval centre and a famous summer music festival.
**Pécs. A lovely, cultured town with some impressive monuments - such as the Turkish Mosque Church and the synagogue - a cluster of excellent museums, plenty of music and opera offerings and superb leatherwork.
Summertime sees a rash of dance and music concerts in gorgeous locations.
It's a long way south of Budapest so most convenient for those travelling to/from Croatia.

View of the Danube River from Visegrad

Activities Guide:
Hiking: many well-marked, attractive trails cross the hilly north and west parts of Hungary and hikes range from half a day to a week.
Volcanic Badacsony's basalt towers beside Lake Balaton or those in the Tapolca Basin are favourites, as are walks around the Danube Bend. See 'Where to travel'.
Caves: In the north east the spectacular Baradla Cave in the Aggtelek cave system is a World Heritage site. There are many kilometres of limestone caves walkable on daily tours.
Canoeing: the are many excellent tranquil routes, including through nature reserves. Birds sightings are common. The Great Plain's Tisza River is especially popular, as is the Bodrog River.
Biking: excellent tracks run beside the Danube in Buda and Szentendre, around Lake Balaton and various mountain ranges such as Matra.
Bikes can be taken on most trains, with a ticket.
They are not allowed on some main roads and tramlines and cobblestones can be tricky.
Windsurfing and Sailing: Lake Balaton [77km x 6km] is only 3m [10ft] deep, has no currents, warm summer water [21C] and has lots of rental possibilities especially on the south [east] shore].
Bird watching: in the Hortobagy National Park, 40km [25m] from Debrecen. Over 300 species of bird hang out in this huge wetland reserve, including great bustards. Cars are not permitted and a guide is useful.
Horse riding: The Magyars were warrior horsemen a thousand years ago so this is the right place to have a wild ride.
Riding centres can be found in most areas, but especially near Budapest, around Lake Balaton and on the Great Plain [Puszta] where genuine Hungarian cowboys still live to ride. The largest riding centre is Epona Riding Village in the Hortobagy Park. Horse carriages are also for rent.
Golf: there are a dozen good courses around Budapest and in the west of Hungary, Transdanubia.

The world famous spa in the Gellert Hotel, Budapest

Spas:
Spas - natural, hot, mineral pools - are both a social occasion and a way to treat different physical conditions according to the mineral content of each spring. Specialists can recommend appropriate therapies to deal with various problems.
Budapest claims to be the spa capital of the world with over 30 thermal springs [Hungary's total is over 1,000], and the most famous spa is in Buda's gorgeous Gellert Hotel with spacious Széchenyi baths, over the Danube in Pest, coming a close second.

Main Festivals in Hungary:
end of Feb: Busojaras Carnival - ancient and colourful celebration of the new spring, in Mohacs.
end of March: Budapest Spring Festival - a huge and well-respected arts festival.
May-October: Regional Wine Festivals - lively local celebrations, including Sopron, Tokaj, Eger, Szekszard, Koszeg and Balatonboglar.
mid June: Danube Carnival - East European folk dance and classical music.
June: Pécs Weeks - a clutch of events related to arts of gastronomy.
June/July: Sopron Festival Weeks - another world famous event, this one showcasing ancient music and dance, in Sopron, near Vienna.
mid July: Visegrad Palace Games - a medieval festival, including arts, archery and jousting in this pretty town near Budapest.
late July: Koszeg Street Theatre Festival.
early August: Eger Baroque Festival - three weeks of dance, music and street activities in gorgeous Eger.
August: Folk Arts Festival - a fascinating collection of folk arts, in Nagykallo.
August 20 : St Stephens Day - a nationwide celebration, especially lively in Budapest, with parades, folk singing, fairs and fireworks.
August 20 : Flower Carnival - a huge and kaleidoscopic event, in Debrecen.
September: Jazz Days - Hungary's best jazz gathering, in Debrecen.
September: Wine Song Festival - choirs and vocal acts lubricated by wine evenings, in Pécs.

The National Theatre, Budapest

Visas:
Hungary has joined the Schengen accord, so tourists can enter on a European Union Schengen visa and there will be no further ID/passport controls on EU borders. Citizens of the USA, Canada, Australia, Mexico, Venezuela and New Zealand may enter without a visa for 90 days.

Tipping:
About 10% to taxi drivers and waiters. Check restaurant bills carefully, fiddled numbers are common.
And if you say thank you when you pay the bill you won't get any change!

Electricity:
Electric sockets are 230v and take 2 round pin plugs.

Safety:
Similar to much of Europe, lite crime is generally visited upon the dumb or unwary. Don't change money on the street, pickpocketing and bag filching happens on crowded public transport - occasionally using razors to cut bags from behind - and taxi drivers overcharge.
Fake police may try to lift a tourist's passports, credit cards or bags. Real police have an ID with hologram, so ask for it.

International travel:
Discount train fares to other East European countries are common and trains are comfortable and efficient.
A hydrofoil service also runs in the summer to Vienna via Bratislava, on the Danube river [about 5 hours].
There are a multitude of efficient, good value buses running too, e.g. Vienna 3 hours, Prague 8 hours, Berlin 15 hours.

Cuisine:
This is another European country where rich, fatty, salty foods are the norm and weight loss is not an option.
All the best local foods are widening, from traditional Hungarian goulash - a thick and spicy stew of potatoes and fatty beef or pork - to ubiquitous sour cream, dumplings, pastries and strudels.
International fast and equally fattening foods are widely available too, with pizza, kebab and burger joints open in most towns.
Healthier offerings, in the shape of vegetarian or nouvelle cuisine, are becoming more visible though still limited.
Street stalls are always better value and serve good alternatives such as corn, bean soup, chestnuts, crepes, fried fish, fruit, waffles and donuts.
Avoid eating in places that do not state prices on the menu and check the bill carefully at the end. Overcharging is commonplace.
Wines and beer are excellent and good value.

Traditional Hungarian housing in the countryside

Accommodation:
There's a wide range of accommodation from luxury hotels to cheapish pensions to village homestays to varied campsites, but it's important to book well ahead for the June-September season.
Many places can now be contacted by email.

External reviews on travel in Hungary.

Language:
What a nightmare! German is the Hungarian second language, English third, so it's worthwhile learning some basics even if it takes three weeks to learn three words, though on the plus side 'hello' is the same as 'goodbye'!

Travel to Greece

2009-09-16T17:59:00.000-07:00

Greece

Get there in the right season at the right place and it is a marvel of blue skies, white beaches, ancient monuments and history up to your eyeballs, particularly Athens.
The people are mostly agreeable and many now speak English.
Transport systems - whether metro, bus, plane or inter-island ferry - are excellent, though overground trains are still questionable.

Meteora and its monasteries, on the Greek mainland, Europe

The variety of sights is huge, from Athens or Crete's classic ruins to Meteora's pinnacle monasteries, to the lost city of Atlantis [Santorini island {image below}, and the apex of pretty Greek islands, Mykonos]. These must be on any serious traveller's 'do before I die' list, but they don't require a huge amount of time or expenditure.
The biggest bargains in the country are ferry fares. Most boats are new, well stabilised and fast e.g. getting from Santorini to Mykonos in about 1.5 hours for around €10, depending on sea conditions.

One of the faster Greek ferries

Santorini island

Downside:
- Greece is no longer a cheap destination.
- Seafood supplies are sadly stunted. See 'Cuisine'.
- Outside the chunk around the Acropolis, Athens is not a pretty sight.

Panormos beach, Mykonos island

Athens' Parthenon, on Acropolis Hill

Greece Travel Guide, climate:
Best: March - June, September-mid October for sightseeing, though the Mediterranean will be chilly for swimming till June. The very, very best month for travelling the islands is September, with warm seas, fewer tourists and most ferry services still operating.
Worst: mid July - August. The country is over heated, overcrowded and suffers the random Meltemi wind, making sea travel wobbly and beach use uncomfortable.
Mid Oct-February is the cold wet season.

Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not incl. flights: Athens and a little elsewhere - 1 week
Recommended: 3 weeks for a cursory look at one or two Greek regions, at least 2 months for a real study of the country.

Greece Main Attractions:
Athens, you don't need much time there as the main sights are in a compact, easily walkable area, but you should give it at least a couple of days. See Athens pictures.

Delphi is not only the striking World Heritage home of Apollo, Dionysos, the oracle and varied stone treasures, but also a spectacular clifftop village.
Tour buses take the shine off but it's still worth travelling the 180km/ 112m from Athens.
Meteora [picture at top]. You could do this James Bond-pinnacle-monastery location in an afternoon with your own wheels, but that would be rushed. It's a great place for grabbing some Ouzo and ice from a vendor and sitting on a very high rock, or having a strenuous walk.

Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki is a sophisticated port city with a few ancient monuments and a good selection of bars, restaurants and clubs, but it's hardly a must see.

Halkidiki, Karydi beach, Sithonia peninsula

Halkidiki. The Halkidiki peninsula, near Thessaloniki has three smaller peninsulas, the good [Sithonia], the god [Athos], and the ugly [Kassandra]. The first is the one with excellent beaches, stunning roads and a non-touristy feel.
Zagoria. Not easy to get around without a car, this area boasts superb views as well as a collection of incredibly organic, traditional villages - known as Zagorohoria - built mainly out of slate. Traveller's favourites are: Papingo, Monodendri and Tsepelovo.
There are also two hiker's delights, well-forested Vikos-Aoos National Park and the 10km/6m Vikos Gorge.
The Peloponnese. This delightful island/peninsula is another area that deserves time and your own wheels, offering the traveller the essence of Greece in one package. Mountains tower, valleys are full of trees and remnants of lost civilizations - Olympia, Epidaurus and Mycenae for example - superb beaches [especially along the south Messinian Gulf] see few foreigners, and towns are attractive, particularly Nafplio, Greece's first capital. It's full of fortresses and fancy mansions and makes a good base for exploration.
Hikers, on the other hand, prefer pretty little Kardamyli village as a base to enjoy the Vyros Gorge and Taygetos Mountains.
The Greek Islands: Get the season right and they're perfect. See Greece beach pictures.

Skiathos island town at night

Activities:
Hiking: Spectacular scenery and fairly reliable weather encourage this activity, but poorly marked paths are a problem. Around Meteora and in the Zagoria and Peloponnese regions [see 'Where to go'] are stunning walks, while Naxos island is favoured by German legs.
The islands are a safe choice since you can't travel too far from humanity. May and June are prime hiking months generally as hills are scattered with wild flowers and temperatures are comfortable.
Climbing: The mainland offers the biggest, baddest climbs, with the amazing vertical pinnacles of Meteora proving popular.
Skiing: Northern Greece has mountains and snow in excess, though few foreigners visit so ski resorts are good value and pleasant but fairly basic. Mt Parnassos, NW of Athens, and Mt Vermio, west of Thessaloniki are the best known.
Windsurfing: One of Europe's best windsurfing destinations due to consistent sun, wind and protected bays on a myriad islands, boards are widely available to rent.
Schools are established in some of the best locations on Lefkadha, Kos, Paros, Samos, Crete and Corfu's west coast.
Sailing: endless hospitable islands, sheltered bays, good winds and sun and a huge rental selection at the right price make Greece a major sail travel haven. Skiathos has a particularly large fleet.
Snorkelling/Scuba: Snorkelling is fair, with interesting rocks and fishies particularly in evidence around Paros [Monastiri], Skopelos [Velanio] and Corfu [Paleokastritsa].
Scuba is prohibited outside recognised dive schools due to government fears of theft of underwater antiquities. Some islands that have schools are: Corfu, Skiathos, Crete, Mykonos, Paros, Rhodes, and Santorini.

Motorcycle/scooter hire:
Travel on Greece islands is easiest by scooter. They are good value, easy to park and OK off-road, BUT, most rental agents demand a full motorcycle licence, not just a car licence, even for 49cc wheels. So get a licence!
And look out for sand/dirt on bends if you prefer not to go home with a gravel rash.

Rental scooters on Naxos island

Greek Festivals:
Feb-March: Carnival - regions vary, though most events will be colourful and bacchanalian. Patras is famed for its elaborate processions.
25 March : Independence Day - the usual parades, but also dancing.
March-April: Easter - Greece has a strongly religious bent so Easter celebrations are often striking. Good Friday eve candle processions all over the country are moving. Especially dramatic is Athens' on Lykavittos Hill. Also Saturday night candle Mass and more processions.
June-Sept: Athens Festival - music and drama in evocative Athenian settings. It'll be all Greek to you.

Visas:
Europe citizens and nationals of USA, Canada, Australia and New Zealand do not need visas for visits up to 90 days.

Electricity:
Electric sockets are 220v and take 2 round pin plugs.

Safety Guide:
Crime is rare, though Athens gets a fair share of pickpockets and low-class hotel thievery.

Plato, as seen by a Paros sculptor

Language:
Many Greeks, especially the young, speak English, so a few basic words will suffice.
For reading street signs, however, a grasp of the Greek alphabet is VERY useful, and not too difficult since many characters are the same or similar.

A couple of words:
'Hora' means old town or main town and is used when the island name is identical to the town name.
'Domatio' [domatia pl.] means apartment to rent. Domatia are usually newish, very comfortable and good value.

Cuisine:
The bad news: Four legs good, two fins bad, so don't go thinking great seafood at reasonable prices. Totally contrary to expectations it is generally:
ridiculously expensive
unimaginatively prepared
limited in variety
And the taramasalata...8 out of 10 times it appears as pink, slightly fishy mashed potato. Is the Med/Aegean overfished?
The good news: Lamb and pork, pizzas, crepes, pasta, aubergine dishes and kebabs are commonplace and well prepared.
Fruit and pastries are good, though traditional salads in Greece are dull.
If you're in a hurry or on a budget you'll easily find a streetside kebab counter [Gyro] serving pitta bread with delicious pork and/or mixed salad, with a cold Amstel beer, for a couple of €/$.

Germany

2009-09-15T13:55:00.000-07:00

Germany
Apart from any interest in the huge historical and industrial impact of Germany on the world and especially on Europe, the country offers tourists many attractions: lovely rustic towns with well-preserved traditions; sophisticated cities sporting avant-garde art; spectacular castles; vast forests and mountains, and plenty of classic art and culture to fill in the cracks.
With native sons such as Bach, Beethoven, Brahms, Handel and Wagner, music is big in Germany, and not all of it classical. Berlin in particular is a breeding ground for youth-led musical outrage.
Other artistic and intellectual spheres also embrace outstanding names. e.g. Goethe, Brecht, Einstein, Nietzsche, Karl Marx, Kant, Beuys, Ernst... the list goes on and on.

The Gendarmarkt, Germany, Europe.

Downside
- It surprises many tourists how many Germans speak no English.
- Outside sophisticated towns eating often means plain meat and two veg, filling but not thrilling.

Germany Travel Guide, Climate:
Best: may-Sept:
Worst: Nov-March. Short daylight hours, cold and grey, but snow helps the ambience and Christmas fairs in December are light and lively, especially in Munich, Berlin, Heidelberg, Lübek and Munster.

Lenght of stay:

Minimum worthwhile stay, not including flights: Berlin for a wild weekend.
Recommended: 2 weeks to have a reasonable look at this huge country.

Germany´s main attractions:
East:

Berlin, a wild and exciting capital city, if not particularly sympathetic or staggeringly beautiful.
Leipzig. This laid back, pretty old town, is a musical pot of gold, the home of Wagner, Mendelssohn and Bach. All sorts of fine music is available in relaxed environments, from club to classical.
Weimar is a minor city but a major tourist attraction for Germans, the place that launched a thousand quips - Nietzsche, Goethe, Klee, Kandinsky, Liszt and Bach [Bach again? How many homes did he have?!] all considered this home. More sobering, Buchenwald concentration camp is also here.

Lubeck medieval town, Germany.

West:
Lubeck, a charming and well-preserved medieval town and UNESCO World Heritage site, it's in the north of Germany, not far from less attractive but very lively Hamburg. Marzipan is claimed to originate from here when the town was under seige and short of food.
Cologne, beside the Rhine, is notable for its sights, including the massive Gothic cathedral, its colourful Christmas market and its outrageous Carnival. Then there's the equally outrageous but more accessible Chocolate Museum...
Frankfurt. A transport nexus and business centre, Frankfurt is cosmopolitan and offers the culture vulture a trove of superb galleries and museums.
It's convenient for Heidelberg and the Rhine Valley.
Heidelberg. A small, relaxed, charming university city, with river, castle and old town. Near the Rhine Valley.

Heidelberg, Germany.

Bavaria:
Munich, capital of Bavaria - is Berlin's main rival, deservedly so as it's relaxed yet sophisticated, spacious yet compact, with grand old buildings galore and the Alps only an hour away. The city park is home to a gorgeous 'Englischer Garten'.

Munich, Bavaria.

Funssen [or nearby Schwangau] in Bavaria is for lovers of fantasy castles, with mad King Ludwig's three spectacular offerings clustered around here, including Neuschwanstein - Europe's best? But the town is also attractive, as are the Alps nearby.

Neuschwanstein castle, Germany

Neuschwanstein is the most famous castle in the world and Disney's inspiration. Begun in 1869 it was the mountain retreat of King Ludwig II and sports an interior just as wild as the exterior, with rooms painted in frescoes from the operas of Wagner. Nearby are more castles from the same fantasy schloss stable, now marketed as ' the Romantic Road' that runs from Wurzberg to Fussen.

Intercity Travel:
Trains are excellent in Germany, particularly ICE [Intercity Express].
Buses, though cheaper are a lot less comfortable and slower.
Self drive is a great way to travel distances apart from the occasional jam and some intimidating driving on the autobahn [motorways].

Local Transport:

Generally trains are the way to go, if they are available - which they are in urban areas. Buses are less ubiquitous while taxis are expensive.
The S-Bahn is overground rail, the U-Bahn undergound. i.e. the metro.

External reviews on travel in Germany.

Visas:
European citizens are free to travel wherever, whenever in Germany, while nationals of USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and Japan do not need a visa for up to 3 months, though you should carry your passport.

Electricity:

Electric sockets are 230v and take 2 round pin or 2 flat pin plugs.

Safety:
Germany is safe - though less so the east half - and locals are unlikely to dip their hands in your pockets, but new East Europeans are not so restrained, so take the usual precautions.

Language:
When you meet Germans abroad they always seem to speak excellent English - albeit with a harsh accent. Not so at home! It's worth learning a few key phrases to lube your travels, particularly food words as menus are rarely translated into English and guessing doesn't work well in German.

Money:
The Euro is used in Germany. Costs are a little high though consuming fast food is one way to keep expenses [along with your lifespan] down.
Tipping is not necessary in restaurants, but taxi drivers expect about 10%.

Accomodation:
Hotels are plentiful and not necessarily pricey. Guesthouses and pension are also common and even better value. The only problem - apart from festival time when you should book way ahead - is in the east where you might have to take a room in a private house.
Campsites are always well set-up but popular in the summer so plan to check in early in the afternoon.

Cuisine:
This is not a good destination for dieters. Traditional German food is heavy, fatty and sweet - or both - and tasty too if you have a simple palate.
Meat, as you would expect, is a key ingredient, with sausages heading the menu, while potatoes, dumplings and chunky bread are the carbohydrate support act. This style is especially prevalent in east Germany.
In the more sophisticated towns less disastrous foodstuffs are available, even vegetarian, and ethnic restaurants pop up everywhere, particularly Italian, Turkish and Chinese.
A wonderful selection of beers and sweetish wines are also no help to modern tastes and waists.
Few menus outside tourist-targeted restaurants show English translations, and German is not an easy language to guess so consider bringing a phrase book along or learn food vocabulary in advance.

Cathedral

France

2009-09-15T08:52:00.000-07:00

Notre Dame view

Travel to France

Style, culture, architecture, food, wine and fashion all exist in multiple layers of excellence, with Paris in particular capturing and displaying these assets to great advantage.
This is the largest country in Europe, has an incredible diversity of soaring landscapes, gorgeous villages, world-famous resorts, beaches and spectacular romantic escapes.
On top of that, French love anything to do with bodies, so there is no better place for fulfilling your physical dreams, whether it's paragliding off the Alps, boating through the Dordogne or stuffing yourself with foie gras and a bottle of Pouilly-Fuissé.
The language is one of the most beautiful things about the country so let's forgive the French for being sniffy about it.

Downside:
- Traffic. The French are no longer insane drivers on autoroutes, having been tamed by a draconian and successful anti-speed campaigns, but they are still hairy and careless around towns. France is also a convenient thoroughfare for North-South Europe road deliveries, so some cross-France routes suffer truck overdose.
- Sudden, disruptive strikes.
- Locals attitudes to foreign travellers could be improved in Paris though in many other areas the French are charming and friendly.

France climate guide:
Best: March- June, Sept, early-Oct for sightseeing.
Jan-March for wintersports.
Less good: July, Aug. The country is packed with foreign and local tourists; some services in Paris - even museums and restaurants - are closed; the big Atlantic beaches are warm and useable though the Mediterranean coast can get too hot and the warm waters may be visited by stinging jellies.
Dec-Feb can be bitterly cold in mountain areas and in the north including Paris, though the Cote d'Azur may well see blue skies and daytime T-shirt weather.

French Alps, Europe

Possible Activites Guide:
Hiking/climbing: With more than 60,000 km [37,500 miles]of well-marked long-distance footpaths to travel on, France is a superb walking country. Also see Walking Tours.
Cycling: the most French of activities; the first modern bike was French!
France has 28,000km of marked cycle routes, as well as good city and town cycle lanes.
Camping: Plenty of choice of places and facilities from basic campsites to luxury holiday parks throughout the country, especially along west coast beaches. Efficient, stress-free and perfect for the family.
Skiing: France is one of world's finest and most popular destinations for both downhill and cross-country skiing.
Gaving: The limestone caves along Spanish border or the Southwest are ideal.
Golfing: There are over 500 golf courses in the country, with several world-class ones. Relatively inexpensive and uncrowded.
Hangliding and paragliding: The Hautes-Alpes of Provence, the Pyrenees and Corsica are considered to be best places for high times.
Rafting/canoeing: rental boats and organised excursions are available just about everywhere by the water in summertime. The gorges in the Pyrenees, the Alpes and the Massif Central are particularly suited for this sport.
Swimming/sunbathing: From Normandy, down to Biarritz, across to the Côte d'Azur and across the water to Corsica there's no shortage of French beaches and swimming spots in the summer.

St Jean de Luz, near Biarritz, southwest France

Sailing: The Atlantic coast has solid winds, and an interesting coastline though the water and weather can be brutal; there are plenty of delightful and welcoming ports such as La Rochelle, Cherbourg, Biarritz and St Jean de Luz. On the the Mediterranean side the sea is safer and warmer but ports are expensive and crowded, such as Monaco Cannes, Nice and Antibes.
Diving/snorkelling: Excellent diving available in Corsica and pretty good off Cannes and Antibes too, especially around the islands off the coast.
Surfing: often good waves along the Atlantic coast, such as Biarritz, Anglet and Hossegor.
Wind/Kitesurfing is most popular on the western end of the Mediterranean coast.
Many rivers as well as on lakes such as Lac d'Annecy and Lake Geneva have leisure centres offering a wide rage of watersports.
Fishing: Available on rivers and lakes with permits. Try Brittany for carp fishing, River Loire and Brittany/ Normandy for trout and salmon, but the best and most scenic rivers for salmon fishing are in the western Pyrenees.
Get a licence at the local tourist office. Sea-fishing, including night-fishing, is popular and available at most seaside resorts.
Horse riding: widespread but particularly favoured in Burgandy and the Camargue at the Rhône Delta [in Provence], a nature reserve famous for its indigenous horses.
Another horse friendly area is the north; Parc International de la Canche in Le Touquet has 112km of forest riding routes and 26km of beach trails.
River/Canal Cruises: A large and sophisticated network of canals and rivers can take you all over the country in peace and quiet, and you still see the sights, but you don't have to book a room ahead.

External Reviews:on travel in France.

Champs Elysees, Paris, Europe

Visas:
EU citizens do not need visas, nor do many other country's residents - including USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and Israel for visits up to 90 days.

Electricity
Electric sockets are 230v and take 2 [thin] round pin plugs.

Lenght of stay:
Minimum worthwhile travel, not incl. flights: Paris and île de France [a short excursion] - 4 days. Weekend trips to just Paris are good too.

Recommended: At least 2 weeks to take in Paris, and some country/mountain/beach activities, but you'll need months to discover how diverse the country's attractions are.

France Festivals:
Apart from Bastille Day and Assumption of the Virgin Mary [Aug 15th], which are celebrated nationwide, there are regional folk festivals and arts festivals, as well as Catholic events throughout the country, especially around July. Most of the events involve food, wine and extreme dyspepsia.
Jan. 1st: Grand Parade Paris, twinned event with London for New Year celebrations. Massive and colourful.
Feb-March: Nice Carnival, one of the biggest and the most original carnivals in the world, a two week event with colourful parades, street parties, fireworks, and monster illuminations.

mid May: Cannes Film Festival - No need to be a celebrity to enjoy Europe's high profile film fiesta. Loads of public screenings are available, as well as a small chance of bumping into stars. No better place for people watching.
mid May/mid Oct: Gypsy Festival [Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer in Provence], a gypsy gathering; historic, unique and kaleidoscopic.
June: International Music Festival [Strasbourg in Alsace, the North], contemporary music.
July 14th: Bastille Day [nationwide], France's biggest street festival, with parties, parades and fireworks to remember the French Revolution.
July: Tour de France, a three-week cycling race for 3,500km [2000 miles] over the country [route changes annually]. The world's most famous French sporting event.
mid July-mid Aug: Festival d'Avignon - a dynamic and diverse Arts festival, boasting over 50 official productions and many more fringes. For classical music, try Festival International d'Art Lyrique in Aix-en-Provence in July, too.
early Aug: Festival Interceltique [Lorient in Brittany], a worthy folk event [Celtic music and culture].
Oct: Jazz Festival [Nancy], one of the country's best jazz events.

Louvre, Paris, Europe

Cusine
Traditional French cuisine of the protein-covered-with-heavy duty sauce kind has been top of the gastronomic world since Romans travelled there to eat wild boar with cranberries in 34AD. But it's finally out of fashion - too heavy, too fattening, too taste-limited; these days the kind of French cuisine tourists are more likely to find will be varied, healthy, entertaining and perhaps even competitively priced, with all things fishy being especially appetising in contrast to classic Anglo-Saxon marine fare.

Shopping
Pricewise France is not so brilliant due to the €uro's strength, but French style and taste is still irresistible.
If designer labels are not your thing, try French eccentricity at smaller boutiques in trendy areas, or cheap chic stuff at flea-markets.
Bargain shopping for any French products at huge malls in places such as Calais or Lille is very popular [with mainly British travellers].
Visiting local open-air food markets for regional cheese, pastries and wine, especially in Provence, is a fun way to make lunch.

Safety advice:
Relatively safe but always use common sense. Pickpockets operate on the metro and around some tourist sights.
Cars travelling with foreign number plates are possible targets for theft, ranging from smash 'n' grab by motorcycle while in motion, 'Mister your wheel it look funny' trickery, and regular parked break-ins.
Always hide luggage, especially valuables, and park in a conspicuous area if possible.

Language:
Nowadays more locals understand English, but do not expect them to speak it, even if they are in service. If you can throw together a few words it will help when travelling in most places in France, except possibly Paris, where city dwellers are notoriously sniffy about their gorgeous language being tortured by foreigners.
Do, at least try to say 'Bonjour Madame/monsieur' when you enter a small shop and 'Au revoir' when you leave, this will show that you have some appreciation of their culture, even if you don't speak any other French.

Costa Rica

2009-09-14T17:15:00.001-07:00

Discover Costa Rica's Best Eco-Adventures

By Chris Walsh

Costa Rica should be primed on the radars of every eco-savvy traveler hoping their next trip will include days spent soaring through treetops á la Tarzan and nights spent ogling rare rainforest species.
This verdant, mountainous country with miles of coastline is a veritable adventure traveler's Mecca, offering up all manner of outdoor activities: whitewater rafting, hiking, mountain biking, canopy tours, surfing, swimming, snorkeling and fishing. Costa Rica even lures less adventurous folks with its enchanting natural hot springs and gorgeous beaches.
As you plan your visit to Costa Rica, put these can't-miss, unique outdoor experiences on your must-do list:
Fly Through the Forest
Soaring over the jungle on Costa Rica's famed zip-lines is one of the most exhilarating -- and to some, terrifying -- experiences around. This top tourist attraction, advertised as a canopy tour, features platforms connected by thick cables stretching across tree-laden ravines, hillsides and valleys. Participants are strapped into harnesses, clipped onto the cables and sent flying from one platform to another.
While other countries have similar attractions, Costa Rica's are some of the best in terms of length, speed, height and views.
Canopy tours are ubiquitous across the country; make sure you do some research first to find a reputable tour operator. Recommendations include Selvatura Park, The Original Canopy Tour and The Canopy Adventure Tour.
Explore the Rainforest, Day or Night
If you visit Costa Rica and somehow don't make it to a rainforest, you've missed the whole point. Big time.
The country's lush forests are some of the most tranquil and beautiful in the world. Here you'll find crashing waterfalls, gentle streams and unusual wildlife galore, including three-toed sloths and howler monkeys.
But don't limit yourself to daylight hours. Take an organized night walk, where you can glimpse nocturnal species you won't see during the day -- including sloths, snakes, frogs, bats, spiders and a wide variety of insects -- illuminated only by the beam of your flashlight.
Your best bets for exploration are to head to Corcovado National Park or the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve, where clouds literally float through the treetops.
Scale or View a Volcano
Costa Rica is part of the infamous Pacific Ring of Fire, a belt of volcanic activity that includes parts of the Americas, Antarctica, Asia and the Philippines.
As a result, it has a wealth of volcanoes, five of which are active and another dozen of which are dormant but could awaken in the future.
In many cases, you can climb, drive or ride horses to the top of these volcanoes such as Poas, one of the country's most popular attractions, where you can peer over the edge into massive craters.
The most dramatic viewing experience, though, won't put you anywhere near a volcano's top, as it would be far too dangerous -- even for adventure seekers. In the tiny town of La Fortuna you can glimpse Arenal, the most active and unpredictable volcano in Costa Rica. If the clouds break, you'll be able to see tendrils of lava slinking down Arenal's cone. You can book guided hikes around the volcano, and even a package tour that combines a trip to the area's hot springs and dinner, through tour operators such as Desafio Adventure Company.

Ride the Rapids
Costa Rica is considered one of the world's best places to ride rapids, offering enough white water to appease even the most experienced rafters. But you don't have to be an expert to enjoy Costa Rica's rivers. The country offers plenty of opportunities for all skill levels, including those with no rafting skills at all.
Families and novices can take leisurely paddles down tame rivers such as the Sarapiqui and Corobici. Both offer a great way to see the country and an ample opportunity for wildlife viewing, so don't be surprised to see an otter frolicking in the water or an iguana basking in the sun.
More experienced rafters can try to tame the Reventazon river, which means "bursting waves," or the Pacuare, regarded as one of the world's best rafting rivers.
Experienced rafting companies include Costa Rica Expeditions and Rios Tropicales.
Soak in a Hot Spring
After tromping around rainforests and hiking volcanoes, you'll need to unwind, and the best place to relax is at one of Costa Rica's famous hot springs, with water heated from volcanic rock underground.
The mineral-infused waters, which vary in temperature from 80 to 105 degrees, are said to be a panacea for a variety of ailments, including arthritis and skin conditions.
It's worth a visit to the hot springs resorts of Baldi and Tabacon in La Fortuna. Both include numerous pools, ponds and waterfalls set amid lush gardens. You can also grab dinner, sip a cocktail, or get a massage or mud wrap while you're there. For a more intimate experience head to Eco Termales, which allows only 100 visitors at a time. You can also ask the locals where to find the free hot springs, which don't have the amenities of the larger ones but are much closer to nature.

Finland

2009-09-14T11:15:00.000-07:00

Travel to Finland

Helsinki Port, Finland, Europe

This far north European country embraces cities and towns with buildings ranging from medieval castles to modern classics that all go colourfully hyperactive in the summer months as the sun refuses to set and the locals refuse to sleep.
The massed islands around the south coast and in the central Lake area are a great destination for water sporters and not too bad for wilderness seekers too, though up north to Lapland is more suitable for bipedal space cases or white-out sports freaks in winter.
Crime is low and the country is very clean and efficient while domestic transport systems are excellent.

Downside:
Finland's not cheap, especially alcohol which is way overpriced.
Drunk males are not uncommon and can be difficult. Nothing new there then.
Out of town the endless, flat, repetition of trees/ water/ trees may make travel tiresome.

Finland, Europe, a typical panorama.

Finland climate guide:
Best: May-Sept
The Midnight Sun occurs in Lapland from mid-June to mid-July.
Worst: Winter [very short, dark days but amazing winter landscapes]

Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not incl. flights: 2 days, Helsinki and environs.
A reasonable time: 2 weeks, Helsinki-Turku region, the Lake area, and Lapland or the Aland islands.

Main attractions:
Helsinki. Radiant architecture, excellent museums, scenic waterways, and a lively, cheerful atmosphere - especially in summer months.

Turku. This 800 year old port has lost a lot of its old buildings and culture to rapacious development, but still retains a watery charm, some good museums and a few great buildings including the huge medieval Turku Castle. This is a popular base for cruises around the islands.

Turku - Hamina [east of Helsinki], though the scenery is less than dramatic this road trip winds past an evocative scattering of castles, ancient churches and manor houses. About 200 miles.
Aland islands [Ahvenanmaa]. 6,000 or so flat, rural islands boasting few residents but their own flag and distinctive culture - a particularly good target for bikers or sailors. Ferries run constantly in the summer.
Lake Region. Thousands of attractive lakes and islands take up one third of the country and make a tranquil, wild and watery destination.
Savonlinna is the biggest town in the area, sports the grand Olavinlinna castle and offers endless scenic summer cruises as well as a world class opera festival in July.
The lakes are especially good for bike and kayak travel.
Lapland, north of not-very-interesting Rovaniemi, is a place of space and stark wilderness as you cross into the Arctic Circle.
Under the Midnight Sun hikers will love the spectacular routes, wandering reindeer and free overnight huts of various parks, especially Lemmenjoki National Park, while kayakers will find plenty of rapids to give them an icy thrill.
For a shot of real Sami [Lap] culture try the lakeside town of Inari.

Activities:

Kayaking: water,water everywhere, and plenty of canoes/kayaks to rent. Easy paddling around the lakes, not quite so easy at sea and a touch hairy over rapids up in Lapland.
Hiking: June-Sept, though beware insect overload in June/July. Trails often have huts available en route, or prepared camping places.
Saunas: if you haven't been beaten by a naked mate with birch twigs in a steamy situation then you haven't experienced Finland.

Biking: hire available in tourist areas, and roads are mostly flat and well surfaced in the south, but beware travel monotony - trees, water, trees, trees and so on.
Fishing: a popular pastime in this watery wonderland, including ice-fishing, but a local licence is required.
Cross-country skiing: Oct-April, some trails are illuminated.
Downhill skiing: not common but if you must, try Lapland or Koli in Karelia.
Sailing: with thousands of islands inland and out to sea, good fish and clean air, Finland makes a sailor's eyes go wet and dreamy, but beware navigation around Turku.

Main festivals:

31 Dec, New Year celebrations, especially lively in Helsinki.
May 1, May Day - an excellent excuse to get wrecked with the locals.
June, ***Midsummer's Day [Juhannus], the country's biggest event with parties nationwide.
July, ***Savonlinna Opera Festival, held in a medieval castle set in a lovely town.
July, Ruisrock festival in pretty Turku.
August, Savonlinna Beer Festival.

Money:
The currency is the Euro and prices are high but not stratospheric. Finland is a sophisticated society so ATMs are plentiful and most Traveller's Cheques accepted.
Tipping is rarely necessary.

Visas:
Europe citizens and nationals of USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Malaysia and Singapore do not need visas for visits up to 90 days.

Electricity:
Electric sockets are 230v and take 2 round pin plugs.

Safety:
Crime is very, very unlikely.

Language:
The Finnish language is difficult but most younger Finns speak reasonable English.

Cuisine:
An interesting fusion of Scandinavian and Russian styles, though somewhat heavy and unsubtle. Heavy on the wallet too.
Ingredients lean towards marine life for obvious reasons, but reindeer and snow grouse are on the protein platter too.
Scandinavians love a hearty breakfast so this is the time to load up on calories if you are short on $.

TRAVEL

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Netherlands - Holland Travel Guide

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France

Costa Rica

Discover Costa Rica's Best Eco-Adventures

Finland

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