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Why Travel to Edinburgh?
 
Stern, grey 15thC buildings sit on an extinct volcano, lighting a fire under the colourful and sophisticated locals and inspiring a dynamic arts scene that makes this city well worth a trip.
The weather can be dreadful and some areas are a no-no, but summer time, with up to 18 hours of daylight is sensational, especially during the Edinburgh Arts Festival.
Edinburgh Travel Guide, climate:
Best: May-Sept, esp. August for the Festival, New Year's Eve for Hogmanay.
Avoid: Winter time, when it's cold, grey and daylight is in short supply, and August if your aim isn't the Festival - finding accommodation will be a nightmare at that time.
Attractions:
This is a very walkable/bikeable city with terrific views all around, such as Edinburgh Castle, the Royal Mile [a long, medieval street], St. Giles Cathedral, John Knox House, The Palace of Holyroodhouse, Holyrood Park and Scott's Monument.
Golfers should try the hilarious Brunswick links right in the centre of the New Town, or one of many 'proper' courses nearby, or get serious and head for St Andrews.
And finally the Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre is there for those that love a drop of the hard stuff.
Short Trips:
12thC Haddington, Linlithgow, the Borders, Trossachs, and St. Andrews for a game of golf.

Festivals:
Beginning early Aug for the whole month, International and 'Fringe' Edinburgh Festival [formal arts events, music, theatre, opera etc], and loony Fringe, a massive, world beating celebration of all aspects of the arts, trad to mad, with acts from all over the world. Don't miss it.
Dec 31st, Hogmanay, a time of live music and wild street parties that few nations can equal.

Arts/Culture:
Museums & Galleries: Royal Museum of Scotland, Royal Scottish Academy, National Gallery of Scotland, Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, Scottish National Portrait Gallery, The Writer's Museum(Lady Stair's House).
Classical Music: Queen's Hall, Reid Concert Hall, St. Cecilia's Hall, Usher Hall.
Dance/Opera: Edinburgh Festival Theatre, Kings Theatre, Playhouse.
Theatre: Assembly Rooms, Festival Theatre, Traverse Theatre, Gilded Balloon Theatre, Pleasance Theatre.
Live Music & Clubs: Café Graffiti, Canon's Gait, Cas Rock, Kulu's Jaz Joint.
Check'The List' magazine or the 'Evening News' for event info/listings.
Tickets can be bought from the venues or Tourist office.
Cuisine:
For the best of traditional Scottish cooking, try Mertin's or The Vintners Rooms. The Grassmarket area has great restaurants, bars and clubs, as has the city's port, Leith.
The most stylish restaurant is the Atrium. But don't forget to try the fish 'n' chips. Though you might want to give haggis a miss...
Shopping:
Classy: Princes Street, Waverley Market, Royal Mile.
Wacky: Victoria Sreet-Grassmarket (for antiques, arts and crafts), St. Stephen Street.

TRAVEL TO EDINBURGH

For its magnificent scenery of soaring rocky mountains, rolling green hills, romantic lakes and rugged coastlines, often scattered with picturesque cottages or dramatic castles.
This is a spectacular walking country if you are either weatherproof or lucky in your timing.
Scotland offers wild urban cultures in both Glasgow and Edinburgh, especially the world's most intensive arts experience, the Edinburgh Festival - and particularly its delightfully bonkers 'Fringe' element.
And finally Scotland is a place to meet fine, interesting and mostly hospitable people, though tread warily around a Scot after he's had a few drinks.

Downsides:
- Unpredictable weather, often wet or cold or both.
- Limited local cuisine.
- Voracious midge [like small mosquitoes] attacks in the summer in the countryside, especially near fresh water.
- Scotland has very short daylight hours in the winter.
- The Scottish accent can be tricky to understand.

Climate:
Best: May-Sept. August for the Festival.
Worst: Jan-March [wet, cold, grey, and very short of daylight]. Many small museums close Nov-March.
Edinburgh has an accommodation problem around Hogmany [Dec 29-Jan 2] and during the Festival [August], so, book rooms well in advance.

Main attractions:
***Edinburgh, a dramatic city with the world reputation for its cutting-edge arts scene.
***The Highlands, another splendid landscape, wilder and more dramatic than the Lake District, covering two-thirds of Scotland, with mountains, glens [valleys] and lochs [lakes]. Ideal for hiking and driving.
The highlights are the Great Glen, across from *Inverness to Fort William [both are obvious bases for the Highlands], Nessie-spotting? at *Loch Ness, climbing **Ben Nevis, Britain's highest peak, and walking around ***Glen Coe - it's astonishing beautiful with a tragic history [Picture top right].
**Glasgow, a big industry city with a bad reputation, but actually one of the most cultured and lively urban spaces in the UK. There's some remarkable architecture by C. R. Mackintosh and brilliant museums and galleries - especially the Burrell Collection of art and antiquities including Rodin's The Thinker.
**St Andrews, a university town with the famous old golf course - the Royal & Ancient Golf Club - that is a mecca for golfers.
***The Borders, a tranquil pastoral area with delightful towns such as **Melrose, Kelso and Peebles. The highlights are Abbotsford House [Sir Walter Scott's house], Floors Castle [the Scotland's biggest inhabited castle], Traquair House [the oldest inhabited house]. Ideal for walking, cycling, and driving.
**Stirling, a compact and historic town with an imposing castle, is a perfect base for outdoor travel activities in the Trossachs lowland countryside - ' Rob Roy country'.
**Famous Castles: Eilean Donan near Kyle of Lochalsh, Floors in Kelso -The Borders [picture below], Urquhart by Loch Ness, Cawdor [Macbeth] near Inverness.
Try to stay in a castle-become-hotel if you can afford it. e.g. Leslie Castle, Insch, Aberdeenshire or Borthwick Castle, North Middleton, Midlothian.
*The Orkneys and Shetlands, good for viewing seabirds such as gannets and puffins and prehistoric sites. If lucky you could see the Northern Lights from there.


Main festivals:
Dec 31-Jan 2, Hogmanay, a truly wild New Year's celebration.
Last Tuesday of Jan, Up-Helly-Aa [Viking fire festival] in Lerwick, Shetland.
End of Jan, Burns Night [celebration for Scotland's greatest poet with special dinner]
May, Mayfest, the UK's 2nd largest arts festival in Glasgow.
May- August, Highland Games, traditional sport, folk music and dance, nationwide.
Most of August, Edinburgh International Festival, and the more wacky Fringe Festival, certainly the UK's and maybe the world's best arts festival. Early Sept. Braemar Royal Highland Gathering/Games.



Scottish Note:
There are plenty of themed tours and trails [both guided and non guided] such as 'Castle Trail' and 'Whisky trail'.

England Travel Guide

England's climate:
Best: April-Sept.
Worst: Jan-March [wet, grey, and short daylight hours].
Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not incl. flights: London only - 2 days
Recommended: 10 days, London plus travel outside to 2 or 3 towns and/or the countryside [e.g. the Lake District, the Cotswolds].

Main attractions:
London and the South
***London, see London city guide.
**Bath, an elegant though touristy city, with a real Roman spa bath, pump rooms, cathedral and the finest example of Georgian Classical Palladian architecture, in the county of Somerset, along with new age Glastonbury.
***Stonehenge. A group of huge megaliths [shaped stones] dating from 2100 BC, Stonehenge was a centre for religious rituals.
The site is couple of hours SW of London by car, near Salisbury and well organised, with a free audio tour included on entry.
Nearby are other prehistoric sites, particularly the fantastic, tough-friendly ***Avebury Stone Circle.
**Devon and Cornwall, ranging from bleak peninsula moorlands to fluffy thatched cottages on rolling grasslands or set amongst woods, kid-friendly little bays and beaches on the south coast and good surfing on the north [Atlantic] coast.
The Eden Project, Cornwall. Extraordinary, educational and artistic biospheres housing over 100,000 plants and entertainingly aimed at the general public; great for kids.
***Dorset, Agatha Christie and Thomas Hardy country. Castles [Corfe and Maiden], beautiful harbour [Poole], great beaches [Poole and Bournemouth], Cerne Giant, grand old houses [e.g. Longleat] and the ***World Heritage Jurassic Coast with terrific clifftop walks on the 600 mile 'South Coast Path', Dorset to Somerset.
***The Cotswolds, typical English countryside with beautiful rolling hills and charming villages such as Bibury, Bourton-on-the-Water, Painswick, and Castle Combe [picture above left].

North of London:
**Stratford-upon-Avon, Everything in this over-visited town from buildings to shops, restaurants to cafes is linked to William Shakespeare.
**Cambridge, a pleasant riverside city with its ancient buildings, notable university and some prime scientific Museums. Don't miss King's College Chapel, the Fitzwilliam Museum and a punt on the river.
**Oxford, the world's best-known university city, with stunning city centre colleges including Christ Church, Merton and the Bodleian Library. It's also a good base for Cotswolds travel.
***Chester, the finest medieval/Roman town in the UK, with a complete town wall and an exquisite centre of timbered Tudor buildings.


**Durham, the most striking cathedral city in England with a magnificent 12th century edifice. If you like cathedrals, also try Winchester, Salisbury or Canterbury.
***York, an historic walled city with one of the finest cathedrals in Europe [York Minster]; also a steam museum .
***Lake District, green hills and woodland with 16 lakes and England's highest mountains is one of the most scenic landscapes in Britain. It attracts not only hikers but literary pilgrims of William Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter [Peter Rabbit].
**Haworth, the birthplace of the Bronte sisters, is popular with literary fans. The adjacent North York Moors and Yorkshire Dales from 'Wuthering Heights' are bleakly beautiful and terrific for walking.
**Hadrian's Wall, the ruins of Roman fortifications built between AD122 and 130, stretch across the north of England for 73 miles. The best preserved bit is at Housesteads.
Festivals:
Jan. 1, London parade
Last week of March, Oxford-Cambridge University boat race on the Thames.
Early May, FA Cup [football] Final, Wembley [London].
Last week of May, Chelsea Flower Show, the UK's best horticultural event [London].
First week of June, Derby week [classic horse racing] in Surrey.
Mid-June, Glastonbury Music Festival, one of the world's best, [wettest?!] and most enduring rock festivals
Also in mid-June Royal Ascot [ upper-class horse racing, famous for mad hats and restricted dress]

June, Stonehenge Midsummer Day [Solstice] Ritual.
Late June-early July Wimbledon Tennis.
Early July, Henley Royal Regatta rowing race.
Mid-July, British Open Golf Championship [Variable venues].
July-early Sept.The Promenade Concerts [classical music] at the stunning [though acoustically questionable] Royal Albert Hall, London.
Last weekend of August, Notting Hill Carnival, fiesta with music, dance, and parade by London's Caribbean community [West London].

*There are also regional ceremonies and festivals throughout year, from arts and culture to some strange ancient rituals and customs, such as Monday Cheese Rolling [high speed and fairly dangerous], in Brookworth on the spring bank holiday in May.


Activities:
Walking and Hiking: the Lake District [Britain's largest National Park]; the 100-mile 'Cotswolds Way'; short and long walks all long the southwest coast, including the 630-mile South West Coastal Path, Britain's longest footpath, Dartmoor National Park; North York Moors and Yorkshire Dales National Parks.
See Walking and Outdoor Activities page.
Climbing: Piles of good climbs, including the Cotswolds and cliffs of the Dorset coast. See above link for more info.
Biking: There are many new, car free travel zones through scenic areas, developed by Sustrans, a UK government body. The Whitby to Scarborough Trailway, 20 miles along the edge of the North York Moors National Park, is one of the most spectacular routes.
Surfing: Yes, really, but you'll need a wetsuit! Especially Cornwall, Newquay's Fistral beach and St Ives are the best known - and North Devon, such as Woolacombe pictured below [Atlantic/north-west coast].


Beaches:
These are plentiful in England and often have good amounts of sunshine May-Sept. Excellent walks abound, and the water is clean but always chilly.
Stylish Brighton is a Londoner's favourite, but the beaches are stony; Bournemouth, 2 hours from London by car, has 12km of sandy beaches a great promenade and pine-filled air. Both Devon and Cornwall's host excellent sandy stretches on two coasts, the wild north shore offering frequently windy and chilly Atlantic surf while the south coast is more kid-friendly with cute coves ringed with granite outcrops, caves, rock pools and soft sand, though some surf is often evident.

Nightlife & Entertainment:
Regional cities in England such as London, Bristol, Birmingham, Manchester and Newcastle have wild and varied clubbing scenes, though provincial places tend to be extremely youth oriented.
*There are plenty of themed tours in England [both guided and non guided] such as 'London Pub Walking tour', 'Liverpool Beatles Magical tour' etc. Information and maps are available at UK regional tourist information centres. *Don't forget to have afternoon tea with homemade cream at countryside inn or cafe.

UK Travel Guide
Concise Information

This cluster of tiny countries comprising Great Britain - which is England, Scotland and Wales - and Northern Ireland, has 5,000 years of history and a brilliant variety of things to see and do, culture to nature, old to new, silly to serious, whatever suits the tourist - apart from serious sunbathing or skiing.
London and Edinburgh both offer top class arts and culture scenes with superb museums [mostly free], galleries and theatres in settings of great age and historical reference, while the rest of the island spills over with historic buildings, traditional villages, lovely gardens, parks and even mountains.
The British countryside is easily accessible by car and ranges from dramatic moors to bleak mountains to big soft beaches; a walker's delight and not bad for drivers too, if they stick to the smaller roads. See photos of England, Scotland, Edinburgh and London

Downside:
- It's expensive, especially London hotels and even after the crunch year.
- The weather is often lousy and unpredictable, particularly in Wales and Scotland.
- Public transport, especially rail, is expensive, while some sections of the tube [London's underground rail system] are shabby and overheated - the tube was built long, long ago when users were few.
UK climate:
Best: May-Sept.
Worst: Jan-Feb [wet, cold, grey, and short daylight hours].
London and Edinburgh have accommodation problems around New Year [Dec 29-Jan 2], summer time and the Edinburgh Festival [mid July-Aug.]

Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not incl. flights: London or Edinburgh only - a long weekend could be excellent.
Recommended: 2 weeks, London, Edinburgh, plus 2 to 3 historical towns and/or the country side [Scottish Highlands, Lake District, etc.]
Wales and Northern Ireland are not often included in package tours, and offer less important 'must sees' unless you have unlimited time or a special interest.



Main attractions:
England:
London and the South:
***London, close to being Europe's coolest city, with something for everyone.
**Bath, an elegant but touristy city, with a real Roman spa and fine examples of early Georgian Palladian architecture. In Somerset, along with wacky Glastonbury.
***Cornwall and **Devon,ranging from bleak moorlands to thatched cottages on rolling grasslands, magnificent beaches, pleasant little fishing villages and good surfing.
The Eden Project, Cornwall. Extraordinary, educational and artistic biospheres housing a zillion exotic plants.
***Dorset. Castles [Corfe and Maiden], beautiful harbour [Poole], great beaches [Poole, Bournemouth and scattered along the south-west coast], Cerne Giant, grand old houses [e.g. Longleat] and superb walks such as:
***The Southwest Coast Path, a lovely 630 mile [1014 kms] clifftop stroll through rural, coastal England and the fossil stuffed Jurassic Coast.
***Stonehenge, an enormous, enigmatic, prehistoric stone circle in Wiltshire, along with Avebury, the Cerne Giant and more.

UK Beaches are plentiful and often have goodly amounts of gleaming sand and sunshine May-Sept. Excellent walks abound, though the water is always chilly and the weather can change in a moment.
North of London:
***Oxford, the world's best-known university city, lovely centre, pity about the suburbs.
**Cotswolds, typical English countryside with rolling hills and charming thatched villages.
**Stratford-upon-Avon, Shakespeare's home town.
**Cambridge, a pleasant riverside city with its notable university and gorgeous buildings.
**Chester, the finest Roman and medieval town in the UK [pic top right].
**York, an historic, walled city with the largest cathedral in Europe.
***Lake District National Park, Cumbria, one of the most scenic landscapes in Britain.
*Durham, the most striking cathedral city in Britain.
And all topped off by the decrepit but still impressive**Hadrian's Wall.

Scotland:
***Edinburgh, a dramatic and lively city. Edinburgh Pictures.
***The Highlands, splendid landscapes, wilder and more dramatic than the Lake District, with mountains, glens and lochs make for magnificent walks if you can handle the erratic weather and summer midges [little, swarming mosquitoes].
**The Borders, tranquil pastoral country with delightful towns as well as Hadrian's Wall on the English side.
**Stirling and the Trossachs, a compact and historic town with imposing castle.
*Glasgow, an industrial city with a bad reputation, but reinvented as a wacky cultural destination.
*St Andrews, a coastal town with the famous old golf course.


Northern Ireland:
**the Giant's Causeway, a spectacular volcanic rock formation of basalt columns along the Antrim Coast. A World Heritage Site.
UK Activities:
Walking and Hiking: Numerous short walks and long distance footpaths surround most towns and often cross picturesque scenery in this walks-loving cluster of countries.



Climbing: There are many good climbing spots from the sea cliffs of the Dorset coast to Scotland's Mt. Ben Nevis [1344m], Britain's highest peak. See above link.
Biking: Hundreds of miles of dedicated bike/ walking tracks have been opened recently, as well as road routes. The Whitby to Scarborough Trailway, 20 miles along the edge of the North York Moors National Park, is one of the most spectacular routes.
Bird-watching: the Orkney Isles, Shetland Isles in Scotland, the Norfolk Broads and more.
Fishing: The Borders, Deeside in Scotland and shoals more.
Pony trekking: The Pembrokeshire Coast, Wales or the Pennines, England.
Skiing: Aviemore, Scotland, Britain's biggest skiing centre.

Golfing: From the ancient, lunatic Edinburgh city centre Brunswick Links to St Andrews, there are more than 400 golf courses in Scotland, and not a few in the rest of the UK too.
Surfing: Yes, really, but you'll need a wetsuit! Especially Cornwall - Newquay and Fistral beach are the best known - and North Devon [Atlantic/north-west coasts] plus also Wales and Scotland.
Nightlife & Entertainment: Regional cities such as London, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Bristol, Birmingham, Manchester and Newcastle have wild and varied clubbing scenes, though provincial places tend to be extremely youth oriented.
Tipping:
Waiters will hopefully deserve 10-15% of the bill unless service charge is included. Taxi drivers will be looking for 10%
Intercity Travel
Trains are sometimes on time, sometimes not; they are expensive unless you can book online well ahead.
Intercity buses are much better value and usually make good time.
Some destinations from London by train: Scotland about 6 hours; Wales about 2 hours; Brighton 1 hour; Oxford 1 hour; Cambridge 45 mins; Bristol 2 hours; York 2 hours+; Stratford-upon-Avon 2 hours+; Exeter 3 hours; Bath 1.5 hours;Manchester 2.5 hours; Penzance 5 hours.
Getting around London:
Apart from London's ancient undergound [metro/ subway] or pricey taxis, buses are the best option and reasonably efficient.
Visa advice:
EU citizens are free to travel and work in the UK for any amount of time. Nationals of USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa do not need a visa for up to 6 months holiday, but do need a work visa.
Electricity:
Electric sockets are 240v and take 3 rectangular pin plugs.
Safety:
Tourist places are no problem save for the occasional pickpocket. Take care where you walk after late night booze sessions, particularly in the big cities.
Language
Naturally English is used everywhere though a few Celtic diehards in Wales and Scotland may insist on using their ancient tongues.

 

This is a huge country scattered with stunning ancient artefacts and populated by some of the friendliest people on earth. Flowers seem to burst from every crevice, the sun shines endlessly [other than in winter!], transport systems are efficient and the beer's good and readily available.
Scenery ranges from dull to mind-boggling, beaches are fair, prices are low and shopping is excellent, especially leatherware in Istanbul.
Driving is suprisingly safe, apart from mad Istanbul taxi drivers and night driving.

Downside:
- There have been a few Islamic fundamentalist incidents though they are rare and not [yet] targetting tourists.
- The language is a difficult Asiatic tongue and many Turks don't speak a lingua franca like English so communication is not easy outside resort areas.
- The ubiquitous pine trees and profuse flowers are not going to be enjoyed by hay fever sufferers.
- The lovely local people can be 'economical' with the truth.
- Small sites of big interest, i.e. most of them, cannot contain the seething herds of package tourists. And it's not going to get any better...
- Distances between major sights are considerable.
- Turkish wine is a disaster.

Turkey Travel Guide, climate:
Best: April- June, Sept- Nov. For water sports June - Sept. For the eastern part June - Sept.
Worst: Dec-March [cool and damp], Ramadan [Muslim fasting month, Sept 1 - Sept 29 2008; August 22 - September 21, 2009; August 11- September 10, 2010. There's always a lively feast day, Idd al-Fitr, at the end of Ramadan]

Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not incl. flights: 3 days for Istanbul.
Recommended: 2 weeks

Turkey's main attractions:
***Istanbul. A lovely, relaxed, interesting, comfortable city encircled by water. See Istanbul Travel Guide.
***Cappadocia. A seriously weird and wonderful area of fairy chimneys. Calm, pastoral, inexpensive and spectacular, but a distance from anywhere.
**Nemrut Dagi. A superb mountain top scatterd with huge decapitated heads [in stone, need I say?], but a long way to travel. Cold, so best July/Aug and self drive?
*Bursa. A 2,000 year old city - still in use, housing many fine buildings and a famous natural mineral bath.
Pergamum. Also over 2,000 years old, but only ruins now, in the usual Greco-Roman style. Nice and less crowded than Ephesus, but missable unless you're that way inclined. The same goes for Aphrodisias, Didyma and Priene.
*Pamukkale is a bit of a hike from anywhere, and is a shadow of its former glory but steadily being improved. Don't believe the fantastic travel agent pictures or postcards in Istanbul.
**Ephesus is an extensive, very well-preserved typically Roman ruin complex about 3km from the agreeable little town of Selçuk, but small and overcrowded.
**The Aegean/Mediterranean coast. Lots of beaches and ruins between Izmir and Alanya, tho' package tours are spreading like the plague. See Turkey Beaches and Turkey Beach Pictures.
**Bodrum is crowded but still attractive, especially the Kumbahce Bay side. Lots of pedestrian streets and good restaurants. Good base for boat trips. Small beach, big discos.
*Dalyan, by the river, is small, relaxed and quiet, with great views over the water to some Lycian tombs and pleasant boat trips to Turtle beach or the nearby mud baths. Too many bugs but the birdlife is terrific.
***Olu Deniz. Great [shingle] beach, lively town, beautiful setting.
**Patara. Small town, superb sandy beach, dunes, some old ruins.
*Kalkan. Hill/harbour town, quaint but unfocussed, unlike Kas, further down the road. Small beach and marina
**Kas. Uncrowded, pretty and tranquil, with nice little beaches nearby. The coastal road there is gorgeous and it's also a good base for boat trips. Something of a traveller hangout.
*Antalya. On the central Mediterranean coast with pebble beaches, Antalya is large and historic and not far from the dedicated beach towns of Side and Alanya.
Thanks, but no thanks:
Ankara. Turkey's capital has nothing much to recommend it, except perhaps the Museum of Anatolian Civilization.
*Fethiye. Good access to surrounding beaches and ancient sites but the town is very short of character.
*Marmaris, Kusadasi and Alanya. Beach resorts of the package kind that are mainly good for bad tatoos, good chip butties and cafés showing soccer replays, but if that's your travel scene then this will do you fine.

Activities:
Walking/hiking: particularly good in Cappadocia and the Kackar Mountains near the Black Sea. A long distance walk, The Lycian Way, is signposted from Olu Deniz to near Antalya, takes up to a month.
Mountain biking: bikes are widely for rent, and are especially sensational in Cappadocia.
Motorcycling: scooters often for rent, but don't hesitate to bring your own bike. There are lovely coast and Cappadocia roads in reasonable condition, with acceptably safe drivers - though not at night. Petrol is expensive.
Boat trips: long and short trips with varying qualities of guide. particularly famous are the 'Blue Voyages' travelling from ports like Bodrum, Marmaris, Alanya ++.
Watersports: skiing, scuba diving from Marmaris, Bodrum ++.
Hangliding/Paragliding: especially at Olu Deniz.

Troy/Gallipoli:
Seen the film Troy? Well don't make a special effort to see the site unless you are a very keen archeologist. There's little visible save for a pathetic replica of a wooden horse and a lot of rocks, though the adjacent site of Gallipoli strikes an emotional chord with Anzacs [Australians and New Zealanders] whose troops fought the Turkish there in the 1st World War, and, under the definitely misguided and probably moronic British command, died in their thousands.

Turkish Festivals:
Ramadan: a religious month of daytime fasting when people and services can be erratic. Kurban Bayrami: a four day religious festival during which many facilities will be closed and resorts crowded. Sometime between February and April.
Kirkpinar Oiled Wrestling, mid-June, Edirne.
Istanbul International Festival of Arts, late June - mid July, world class music, dance++
Republic Day, Oct, speeches and parades

Switzerland Travel Guide, climate:
Best: June-Sept for summer activities and Dec-March for winter sports.
Why travel around Switzerland?
Yet another quirky little European country, Switzerland is a wonderful combination of spectacularly bumpy landscapes, perfectly aligned fantasy, wooden villages [albeit with modern concrete monstrousities scattered around too], ancient lakeside cities and great efficiency.
Clichés of course but best Swiss experiences involve a combination of the following - viewing of incredible mountains and lakes, taking part in a variet of sporting activities [summer or winter] in stupendous locations, chowing down and drinking up in stylish, old but lively towns or quaint hillside villages.
Getting from place to place is a breeze via the precise domestic transport system - both buses and trains that are only overtaken for punctuality by Japan. Cycling is encouraged with thousands of kilometres of bike lanes both in and out of cities and easy rentals at train stations [if they haven't run out]. Cars drive ever-so correctly and parking is readily available.
In addition Switzerland is super-safe, many locals speak two or three languages including English and the country is loaded with terrific beers, rich food, amazing pastries and chocolate.

Downsides:
- Switzerland is not a cheap destination.
- don't try anything remotely illegal, [such as crossing the road when the little man is red], this is a very law-abiding state with eyes everywhere [and discreet grey speed cameras that do not register with satnavs!].
- Swiss people - about 65% Germanic - though extremely polite, are, like their climate, cool towards foreigners.
- climatic conditions change suddenly so forget weather forecasts and build flexibility into your schedule; if it's sunny, go up a mountain; if it's cloudy, rent a bike; if it rains, go shopping.

Where to go in Switzerland:
South-west [Lake Geneva, French-speaking]:
**Geneva [Geneve], attractively situated at the southwest tip of Lake Geneva, near France, is cultured and metropolitan, but more of a business and diplomatic centre than party place. Geneva offers a spectacular view of Mont Blanc, a French joie de vivre and lots of lakeside action, including swimming in the summer as well as a great selection of museums and some decent architecture including the ubiquitous old town.
**Lausanne, [pronounced loz-anne] on the other hand and the other side of the lake, really knows how to play, due partly to the university's youth contribution. Steeply tiered, it 's stylish and pleasantly walkable, particularly along the big and tourist-buzzy waterfront but a bit short of the wow factor. Travelling up and down the fairly steep hillside is easy on the autopiloted 'metro' tram.

On the east side of Lake Geneva lie three smaller locations of interest:
***Vevey, just a few klicks along the coast, is a small and appealing market town surrounded by grape vines, with a magnificent, quirky promenade, sensational views across the lake, a summer sandy 'beach', various lake activities and not too many tourists, unlike neighbouring Montreux.
*Montreux, 6km further along the lakeside is the affluent and bijou home to the world's best Jazz Festival in July, but spoilt by tourist herds bussed in from Lausanne for a quick wobble along the prom followed by a steamboat trip back to Lausanne [or boating from Lausanne and bussing back].
The 13thC **Chateau de Chillon is a star attraction in this area, next to Montreux and beautifully located, if you can ignore the autoroute humming overhead. This well-preserved castle was popularised by Lord Byron's 'Prisoner of Chillon.'

The middle [Mittelland, German-speaking]:
***Bern's [Berne] tiny, quiet, riverside elegance is not at all what you would expect of Switzerland's capital. The old town's river-hugged, cobbled streets and arcaded buildings date from the 11thC to the 18thC, though they are not dark, narrow or medieval in aspect, though they do possess a certain grisly humour with statues around dedicated to both bears [the city symbol] and the worst aspects of Grimm's fairy tales [no shortage of ogres!].
Just south of Bern the Lake Thun area affords castle freaks the opportunity to pleasure themselves repeatedly on fine 12th and 13thC fortifications.

***Lucerne [Luzern] is more than just another gorgeous Swiss city. Mix lake, river, mountain, alpine meadows and a colourful, well-preserved old town, throw in a lively youth-oriented street culture, plenty of activities [on and around the lake, up Mount Pilatus or 40 minutes away at Engelberg], simmer gently and you've got the foreign traveller's #1 Swiss role model.



*Basel is wealthy, cultured and convenient, with a pleasant old town and fine museums, but too preoccupied with business to be much fun.
***Zurich, up north, is a far, gnomic cry from its stuffy banking image these days. Gorgeously located astride a river and boxed in by Lake Zurich and distant snowy mountains, the city is a hive of creativity, with a modestly medieval old town and a huge variety of imaginative new establishments to relieve you of your wad.
The miniscule principality of Liechtenstein is two hours away but offers little of interest.


Ticino, Italian region, south Alps:
Warmer and culturally very different from the rest of Switzerland, Ticino sports palm trees, piazzas and pizzas along with the usual lakes, woody hills and medieval old towns. Prime targets are **Locarno and ***Lugano, both on lakes, with the latter offering more views, style and sights.
Local Transport:
Swiss transport is brilliant and trains are the way to go if available. InterRail or Eurail passes offer well-discounted travel, though not on a few spectacular mountain routes.
International Transport:
Roads and railways from the rest of Europe are superb, while boating from Germany, France and Italy is also possible. Buses are a less comfortable option.
Language:
Not a problem in this country which has more multi-lingual ability than any other on earth. A twisted German is the dominant tongue and French second, but everyone can handle English.
Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not including flights: Berne or Lucerne for a romantic weekend, or Zermatt for a sports break.
Recommended: 10 days to get totally knackered at your choice of activity.
Visas:
EU citizens and nationals of USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and Japan do not need a visa for up to 3 months, though you should always carry your passport.
Money:
Contrary to expectations, the local currency is the Swiss Franc [also used by their little brother Liechtenstein], but most places in tourist areas will accept the Euro - though at a cost.
Tipping is not necessary anywhere as 15% service charge is applied to just about everything including taxis.
Costs are on the high side, though cheapish travel in Switzerland is possible if you eat fast food, use a railpass and stay in hostels.


Electricity:
Electric sockets are 230v and are built for three round pin plugs but will accept the usual 2 round pin plugs, fortunately.
Accommodation:
Tourist offices are efficient in listing local rooms/hotels available, often with boards placed outside rail stations. They also hand out 'guest cards' that secure various discounts.
Hotels are not necessarily expensive but hostels are, of course, the cheapest option, though still good quality.
Campsites are good too, mostly open only in summertime. Free camping is not permitted.
Cuisine:
If you're a non-dairy eater then you'll have a problem when you travel around Switzerland, though vegetarians will be unusually fulfilled.
Cheese appears frequently and is the star of Swiss specialities like fondue [dipping bread or potato into melted cheese], raclette [similar] and rosti [cheese-topped grated potatoes].
Lake fish are a popular dish and vegetarian restaurants common.
Those on a budget can find good value set lunch menus or self-service restaurants in department stores.
Safety:
Switzerland is just about the safest place on the planet. Apart from overeating and snow accidents the biggest dangers are likely to be altitude sickness [AMS] or hypothermia when you overestimate your climbing/hiking ability or getting caught by a flash flood while canyoning in summertime.

The largest of the Scandinavian countries, Sweden appears to be little more than a massive forest encompassed by a craggy, fjord-slashed coastline and scattered with 100,000 crystalline lakes, a vast natural force interrupted rarely by the hand of man.
However this clean, green country has scattered gems of sophisticated civilisation, lively, elegant cities full of action and cultural interest - even if they do have a medieval core - and attractive, friendly local people when you get past the initial reserve.
Swedish life is well-organised, highly efficient, very safe and a lot cheaper than it used to be.

Downsides:
- It can get chilly, or wet, or both, even in mid-summer.
- Endless tree views can be sooo monotonous.
- Swedish cuisine is healthy and hearty but hardly entertaining.
Sweden climate guide:
Best: May, June, early July, Sept.
OK: late July-August [the main Swedish holiday so a very crowded time; some rain in August].
Worst: Nov-April [extreme cold and short daylight hours]
Length of stay:
Minimum worthwhile stay, not incl. flights: Stockholm for a wild weekend.
Recommended: 9 days to take in Stockholm, another city and some of the countryside, such as a trip to Gotland.

Sweden's Main Attractions:
***Stockholm, the spirited, handsome capital city has a medieval centre, oceans of water and plenty of activities. See Stockholm Pictures
Near Stockholm:
Ferries around Stockholm are one of the pleasures of tourism in Sweden, either short trips upriver or further out into the Archipelago. [Get a boat pass].
***Take a ferry out to a few of Stockholm's 24,000 nearby islands known as The Archipelago - with varied attractions, harbours, parks, castles and beaches.
**Visit Vaxholm, an idyllic little town with castle, 1 hour from the city.
*Sandhamn [Sandon], popular among summer sailors, one and a half hours from Vaxholm.
***Mariefred, a peaceful town with wooden houses and narrow lanes, famous for its spectacular 16th century Gripsholm Castle. 1 hour by boat, 75km/47m by road from the city.
**Sigtuna, this small, tranquil town dating from AD 970 is the oldest town in Sweden. 46km/29m from the city.
**Uppsala, a quiet, ancient university town with the largest cathedral in Scandinavia and a few good museums. Forty minutes from the capital by train.

Outside the Stockholm area:
**Gothenburg [Göteborg, West coast]. Sweden's largest port and arrival point for herds of tourist cars, Gothenburg is also an attractive, spacious, canal-crossed city with grand buildings from varied eras, fine cultural offerings including a stunning opera house and some excellent museums. Liseberg, a high quality amusement park will give the kiddies a break from culture overdose. nb. the road to Gothenburg from Stockholm is dead boring but the coast north of Gothenburg is rocky and appealing.
**Dalarna and Värmland Provinces [NW, adjacent to Norway, north of Göteborg]: the best of traditional Swedish countryside, unspoilt forests, lakes [esp. Lake Siljan] and ancient villages retaining Swedish folk customs.
***Malmo [SW tip]. Contains one of Europe's most engaging medieval centres and a fast route to Copenhagen [Denmark] via a long bridge.
***Skane Province, SW. A beautiful rolling area of castles and windmills known as chateau country.
***Kalmar [SE island, connected to Oland island], another charming medieval town with a huge history and a fantastic castle.

***Gotland [SE island]. This large island in the Baltic Sea, 90km off Sweden's east coast, provides some of Sweden's best landscapes, sailing, relatively good weather, sandy beaches and the spectacular medieval walled town of ***Visby, with its 100 ancient churches and 3km wall. [A car is not needed, go by train and ferry]
**Beaches: Sweden's south-west coast has many excellent beaches while the southeast islands of Gotland [above] and Oland hosts restrained beach resorts and the country's best climate. A lot of crystal-clear lakes are also swimmable if so posted. We don't need to mention the water is cold?
**Lapland [far north], a massive, wild and unspoilt place of reindeer, mountains, waterfalls, forested valleys and roaring rivers peopled by the Sami [Lapps].
**Gammelstad 'Church Village', Lulea [Norbotten County, NE], a World Heritage Site of 424 tiny old wooden cottages built solely to accommodate visitors to the 15thC church.



Activities:
Swedish tours offer many multi-activity breaks, such as biking, kayaking, rafting and horse-riding in one package. Beware mosquitoes!
Hiking: Sweden is very well organized and trekking is no exception with excellent marked trails, camp sites, mountain cabins and other support for walkers.
The south is good for moderate hikes with scenic views while the far north in Lapland is where to find real isolation, panoramic views, mountains, snow in summertime, wild reindeer and the Sami people and exotic culture. Sweden's best known hike is the 500kms [312mls] Kungsleden from Abisko, north of the Arctic Circle to Hemaven in the south [near Tarnby]. This trail is easy to walk and well serviced but fairly busy, especially in July.
Canoeing/Kayaks: The Stockholm area is a great urban boat experience; head for the southern Archipelago for more strenuous paddling or north to Laponia's World Heritage Site for serious kayaking.
Biking: Cycles are especially useful in cities and widely rentable [free in some hotels]; they are also great for Sweden's more scenic, flatter and drier southern parts e.g Gotland or High Coast UNESCO World Heritage Site on the east central coast. Bikes can be taken on some trains.
Sailing: dinghy rental is available in Stockholm in season. Bigger yachts often do trips including Finland, Norway, denmark or Russia.
Horse riding: There's no shortage of equine rentals in Sweden, with chances of wildlife sightings, such as moose, deer, boar, lynx, eagles. Get details from local tourist offices.
The southern highlands are popular, offering easy access and good weather.
In the north pony treks often start from Funäsdalen, near Norway and Ammarnäs, close to the Arctic Circle.
In the province of Dalarna, you can even rent a horse and covered wagon with space for a small family for multi-day trips, doing around 16 kms [10mls] a day.
Golf: Sweden offers hundreds of delightful courses but one of the most unusual is the Björkliden Arctic Golf Course [the world's most northerly golf course, near Boden] where you can play in a spectacular setting in summertime at midnight!
Fishing: Stockholm in sight of the palace you can fish for salmon, free of charge, by royal decree. Other places you will need a licence. Get more information from a tourist office. Pike, perch, salmon and eel are main targets.

Getting around Scandinavia:
Transport is extremely efficient in Scandinavia, with good trains [e.g. 6 hours from Oslo, Norway to Stockholm. Get a Rail Pass], buses [from Oslo, 7 hours; from Copenhagen, Denmark, 9 hours]. Ferries are fun and competitive but complicated and few go to Stockholm except from Helsinki, Finland, [16 hours].
There's also a bridge from Copenhagen to Sweden's southern city of Malmo, and masses of flights at low prices from other Scandinavian countries.
Tourist train:
Consider the amazing Inlandsbanan Arctic Circle rail line for incredible views in comfort; best starting from Mora [central Sweden]. It only runs mid-June to mid-September.
Travel inside Sweden:
The best thing about the excellent Swedish transport system is the huge multi-mode Rikstidtabellen timetable that lists everything clearly. Find it in tourist offices and travel agents, but it's too bulky to buy and carry, just copy relevant sections.
Self-driving in Sweden is, frankly, often slow and dull [unless you have a passion for endless forest] while city parking is difficult.
Main Festivals:
Midsummer, June 21: the country's biggest event with lots of dancing, fireworks, boozing.
August: Medieval Week, Visby. Historic dress, music, tournaments and more.
August: Gothenburg Party, Göteborgskalaset, is the biggest outdoor festival in the country.
August: Malmo Festival, music and seafood coming out of its ears.
16-19 August: Skokloster Pageant, varied colourful historical events.
18 August: Midnight Race, 10 kms [6 mls] starting in Stockholm's fashionable Södermalm district.
September: Stockholm Yoga Festival, Liljeholmshallen.
Dec 13: Lucia Festival, robed processions, singing, boozing.
April 30: Walpurgis Night, celebrating the winter's end, fires and fireworks.
Swedish Money:
Local currency is the krona [plural: kronor] and easy to acquire from ATMs which are commonplace, do not charge for the service and give a fair exchange rate.
Tips are included in service charges though a 5-10% gift is not uncommon for good service.
Electricity:
230v, 2 round pin plugs, such as in Norway, Finland, Germany, Netherlands [or twin flat pin Schuko plugs].
Safety:
Sweden is a very safe, low-crime area; the police are superb and generally speak good English.
Language advice:
As usual in Scandinavia many locals speak English though learning basic greetings is a nice gesture.



Accommodation:
Curiously hotels in Stockholm are cheaper in the summer than during the rest of the year, due to lack of business trade then.
There's generally a wide range of accommodation from luxury hotels to cheap pensions, youth hostels, b-and-bs and many campsites [June-Sept only] that offer full-featured cabins as well as DIY tents. A Scandinavian camping card is essential. Free camping is also permitted if discreet.
Some parks and trails offer mountain huts.
The Jukkasjarvi Ice Hotel freezes from mid December to end of April.
Guest in a Swedish house? Remove your shoes!
Cuisine:
Swedish food is filling and nutritious but nothing to write home about, even if smorgasbord is an international word.
Sweden's cuisine frequently consists of large servings of potatoes, meat [elk and reindeer if you choose] and fish [usually herring or salmon], supported by salad, cheese and fruit - so you won't starve but you may be bored to death.
Fast food - like anywhere in the overdeveloped world - is readily available, with pizzas leading the fat pack.
Beers are good, wine is fine and Sweden's popular vodka equivalent, akvavit, is head-banging.
Visas:
EU citizens and nationals of USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand do not need a visa for up to 3 months travel in Sweden; other Scandinavians don't even require a passport.

The country is soaked in history [conquistadors, the empire, the inquisition...], colourful culture [Bullfighting, Flamenco, Carmen, Don Quixote...], Art [ Picasso, Goya, Velasquez...], wacky visionaries [Gaudi, Dali...], grand architecture [Moorish in the south such as Seville, Baroquish up north in Madrid, twisted in Barcelona and recently there's Bilbao...] and of course plenty of sun, sand and sangria.

Downside:
- Prices are hardly cheap these days.
- The coasts are overbuilt with mainly vile, high rise resorts and apartments, while the beaches heave with German, Russian and British heavyweights fighting for towel space.
- Petty theft such as picking pockets and bag-snatching is not uncommon, particularly in cities such as Barcelona and Madrid. Try not to look like a tourist!
Climate:
Best: April-June, Sept, Oct, tho' the coasts and islands are often fine and warm in winter and the north and mountains cool and less crowded in the summer.
Worst: July, Aug for crowds and extreme heat in southerly areas. Dec-Feb can be bitterly cold [below zero] in the north/central Spain, including Madrid.

Activities:
Spain mostly attracts beach bums or culture vultures, but there are other activities available:
Hiking: Spain has masses of great walking tours from the mountains north of Madrid to the Pyrenees and Picos de Europa. Check [www.picoseuropa.net/] in Spanish for best advice or [www.asturiaspicosdeeuropa.com/] for a good summary of information on North Spain's Asturias and the Picos in English. Also in the Canary Islands
The classic pilgrim's route, El Camino de Santiago [The Way of St James], runs from Navarra to Santiago de Compostela.
Biking: hire to be found in many tourist areas, but roads can be busy, hilly and hot. Stick to minor roads if possible and consider a pro bike tour with full support if the wallet fits. In English [www.hookedoncycling.co.uk/Spain/spain.html] or [www.cyclingcountry.com/] may be able to help you on yer bike.
White Water Rafting: Aragon and Catalonia [esp. Sort village in the Pyrenees].
Golf and tennis: just about everywhere.
Sailing: widely available, check locally.



Wind/Kitesurfing: at most beaches but aficionados head for pretty and always-windy Tarifa, near Gibraltar or for endless awesome windy beaches head for the Canary Islands.
Surfing: good waves along the Atlantic coast of the Basque Country [Pais Vasco] and off the Canaries but worthless waves on the Mediterranean.
Fishing: check with Federacion Española de Pesca for information. No website.
Climbing: plenty of serious rocks around and the Federacion Española de Montañismo has full details of options, but not in English.
Hang/Paragliding: Castilla y Leon and Castilla-La Mancha have some internationally famous sites for hanging around, while Para people like Valle de Abdalajis, North of Malaga.
Downhill skiing: from Dec-May, especially at Vall d'Aran in Catalonia, Sierra Nevada Ski Station 32 kms north of Granada and Sierra de Guadarrama north of Madrid. Cross -country skiing also.

Spanish Festivals:
Feb-March, Carnival time. Especially wild in Madrid, Barcelona, Sitges and Tenerife island.
March, Las Fallas, Valencia. A crazed week-long street party based on fire and fireworks, lots of both.
March- April, Holy Week [Semana Santa] - impressive, colourful parades and music. Especially vibtrant in Seville, Granada and Malaga.
Late April, Feria de Abril, Seville. More wild, horse-oriented celebrations in this lovely city, but this time less restrained - to put it mildly...
July, Bull Running [Sanfermines], Pamplona. Don't be bored, be gored.
Aug [last Wed], La Tomatina, Buñol [Valencia]. The famous tomato street battles.
Language: As usual a tourist's relationship with locals - not to mention ability to haggle politely over prices - will improve dramatically with a few words and phrases of the local language. Fortunately Spanish is a particularly easy language to learn, in fact many regard it as the easiest major language in the world. In addition, think how many countries use it, including California and Florida! So it's well worth making an effort to learn Spanish.
Visa advice:
EU citizens do not need visas, nor do many other country residents - including USA, Canada, Australia and New Zealand, for visits up to 90 days.
Electricity:
Spain electric sockets are mostly 230v and take 2 round pin plugs.
Health:
Spanish pharmacists usually speak good English and have wide powers to prescribe medicines. i.e. try them first for small medical problems. The sign is a fat illuminated green or red cross.